Stone or Block under Tapered Column Help

Reply

  #1  
Old 11-08-13, 07:07 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 31
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Stone or Block under Tapered Column Help

There was a misunderstanding with the contractor I hired. My original plan was to stack retaining wall blocks around the 4x4 post to dress them up about 30 inches and then have the tapered column added after.... Well I came home one day and the tapered columns were already done. My original plan was to have stone blocks stacked about 30 inches high. I think it will be to hard now to stack them. Any other suggestions how I can finish the post around the post. I would like some type of stone. Not picky. I would like it about 30 inches tall and 16 inches wide. Was going to cut solid cap but not sure if I can now. Any suggestions? Its getting colder every day in Northeast PA so I am running out of time.
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 11-08-13, 07:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 31
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
photo is below to get a better understanding.
 
Attached Images  
  #3  
Old 11-08-13, 04:20 PM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
You will need to build a box strong enough to apply 1/2" cement board on and then affix your stone. Build the 4 sided box on site and build out the 4x4 so that you have a nailing surface and something to steady the box.
 
  #4  
Old 11-08-13, 07:09 PM
Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 31
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Concrete pad. Remove 4by4.. replace with column of concrete blocks
Then. Stone dressing.
 
  #5  
Old 11-09-13, 05:50 AM
chandler's Avatar
Banned. Rule And/Or Policy Violation
Join Date: Dec 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 39,967
Received 3 Votes on 3 Posts
4x4 is providing the only vertical support for the porch outcropping. I would NOT remove it. Having the tapered column there is no problem. It will not rest on the stone anyway (well slightly). A good stone guy can build a concrete base, then a wooden frame as Z mentioned, covered with either cbu or tar paper and lath, then lay stack on that.
 
  #6  
Old 11-09-13, 08:39 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 31
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
There is no way I can remove the 4x4. I was thinking of the box idea. Pour concrete pad nice and leveled with PT on the bottom bottom that will be in contact with the concrete pad. And build it out. Will cement board be okay outside? Hard to find stone. My Lowes only carries a product called airstone. About 50 for 7 Sq ft. Going to pour pad today hopefully if it reaches 50 degrees
 
  #7  
Old 11-09-13, 10:02 AM
czizzi's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: USA
Posts: 7,376
Received 9 Votes on 7 Posts
Do a search for stone veneer in your area. Most are faux rocks which are lighter than actual. Cement Board will be fine, you just have to do the math as to how big to build your base out. It usually is easier once you pick out your stone and can measure actual thickness.
 
  #8  
Old 11-16-13, 12:10 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: May 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 31
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Poured the concrete pad 26x26 inches. Probably a little to large but that's fine. I was thinking of having the cap 24 inches x 24 inches then the overall width of the "box" with the stone 22 inches leaving a 1 inch over hang on each side. Stuck on the Caps. I saw at lowes a 24 inch paver I was going to cut in half and then cut the center for post, but they only had one in stock when I went back and wont have them in until summer....any other ideas for the cap?
 
  #9  
Old 11-16-13, 12:51 PM
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 6,130
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Why do you feel you have to go to Lowes? There must be masonry supply store that has a wide range of stone (thick, thin, natural or manufactures). Then you have choice of what you want to look at for years.

Since you are only doing a veneer, the weather should not be a big problem and can be protected easily for setting up and curing with poly and possibly a little bit of scrap fiberglass. If it will be very cold, try to get the materials a little warm and use warm mixing water (not over 140F), then cover when done. Don't go by the fictional 28 days that is meant for poured concrete and not applicable to mortar. All does is take a little planning for the small amount of materials you will be dealing with.

The key thing is to not allow the mortar to freeze until after it is not saturated (that takes 24-48 hours) and will be shorter with artificial stone because it will such out more moisture that natural stone.

Dick
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: