Elitecrete Finish on Basement Slab ?

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Old 12-13-13, 12:26 AM
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Elitecrete Finish on Basement Slab ?

I didn't see a flooring forum that dealt with concrete finishing, so I wasn't surew where else to post this.

Has anyone had any experience with Elitecrete? I'm considering using this on my basement floor and wanted get some opinions. I've only found one review from a person who used it in their garage, and it didn't work out very well.

If there is a more durable epoxy treatment or acid staining, I would be open to suggestions. The area I'm trying to cover is about 800SQ. FT. and will require a lot of prep work as the slab has adhesive and mastic on it.

Thank you.
 
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Old 12-13-13, 05:29 AM
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eC is a polymer-modified dry mix consisting of white cement, silicon carbide fine aggregate, & hybrid-polymers,,, its a ' just add wtr ' mix - usually 6qts per bag for thinfinish. color pigments are added directly to mix wtr then the dry mix is introduced & mix'd w/true 1/2" drill & mixer head ( 450-500rpm's ).

the base ( 1st coat ) is usually applied to a properly prepp'd conc surface w/squeegee/magic trowel at NO more than 1/8" - best results seem to be 200sf per bag. top coat is the same finish @ same coverage however color can be applied/enhanced by the use of a clear stain,,, a sealer is then applied - ' CSS ' is a methyl-methacrylate reinforced 50% solids acrylic solvent-based sealer. imn-s-h-fo, its the best on the market notwithstanding polyaspartics & urethanes

this isn't something the avg diy'er can do as its a proprietary mix sold only by exclusive distributors to licensed installers/artisans.

you need to do a moisture test FIRST to be sure what you want to do is possible - no matter what you choose, dia grinding must be done 1st - here in atl, about $ 1.25sf

no financial interest altho we were licensed installers/artisans for over 10yrs - it was the best stuff we ever used ! their biz plan & dedicated distributor network is the best in the industry - ALL of the distributors have worn knees & dirty hands experience,,, what else do you want to know ?
 
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Old 12-13-13, 07:39 AM
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Prep and Practice

The information on the previous is accurate.
The surface prep step is an essential part of the process and should never be skipped or short-cutted. In addition to physically profiling the surface with grinders or a shot blast an acid etch/base neutralization completes the surface prep for a successful cementitous overlay. Epoxy, seamless floors do not require the acid/base steps; you can Google Refelector Enhancer to get more ideas on these floors.
It is always reccomended that small practice boards are completed prior to attempting a job such as a basement slab.
Elite Crete Systems does comprehensive, hands on training classes that cover all aspects of such a project and they then provide ongoing tech support for the project and any issues that may arise during or after the project.
Do you have details on how and why the basement didn't turn out great? This would allow for more specific direction.
 
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Old 12-13-13, 08:01 AM
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Options

For durability on an interior floor any cementitous floor can be coated with an epoxy coating. At that point it is recommended the epoxy is coated with a polyurethane for wear resistance. The epoxy provides toughness and the polyurethane protects from wear.

To get a full range of color options for a stained or dyed floor it is best to follow prep with a cementious floor such as Elite Crete Systems Thin Finish and Micro Finish.

It sounds like your best bet is to start with a floor prep company as that is an involved step that will could limit the outcome of your project.
 
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Old 12-13-13, 07:51 PM
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So could any of you who have worked with and/or sold the stuff tell us what a "typical" installation will cost, per S.F., including materials and any prep work? Wouldn't surprise me if it approaches $20/S.F. Meaning the OP's basement floor could run him about $16,000.

I think I'd go with ceramic tile. Easier/cheaper prep work, less expensive materials. And tile won't stink up the house for weeks, like anything with methyl-methacrylate in it will.
 
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Old 12-14-13, 03:26 AM
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if i couldda made that kind of $$$ for dec conc o'lays, i'd have never switched to bsmt wtrproofing / structural underpinnings when i retired like everything else, prices drop as more sources enter the market,,,our 1st hgwy silicone jnt sealing job in NYS made us enough $$$ to buy an aztec b-top plant,,, worst thing we ever did - everyone saw & knew where we got the $$$ prices started dropping

back to cost - expect prep no more than $1.50-$2.00sf which's the same for tile, base & top coat incl color & sealer approx $5 - $6 which can give 1 a great custom floor system,,, top coat w/aus urethane & you're done,,, ' laced w ' - not m/ma straight, bdge
 
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Old 12-15-13, 09:38 PM
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I appreciate the responses ... This is not something I planned to do myself, I'm actually investigating potential companies to do this work here on Long Island, NY. Would you happen to have any recommendations? I was hoping to find a single company to do both the floor prep and the treatment. It seems that a lot of the people doing this kind of work are not into doing residential and focus on commercial work exclusively. The other thing I need to make sure anyone doing the prep work grinds wet and has a vacuum attached as I'm concerned about the mastic & adhesive. Do you think that I should be able to find someone to do this for $8.00 per sq ft. ... both prep & treatment ?

With regards to the person who had issues. I read about this on a forum and it was a garage. It could definitely been a floor prep issue.
 
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Old 12-16-13, 03:18 AM
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grinding wet adds more expense/time but if you're willing to pay, there's someone who'll do it as you spec,,, i dislike wtr's add'd risk factor,,, google eC & send a note to the ny distributor
 
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Old 12-16-13, 10:23 AM
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I feel like they have to grind wet or it will contaminate the house. There is a layer of black mastic that used to hold tile and there is also a carpet adhesive on top of that.

I've been in touch with a couple of the elitecrete distributors here in NY. I can't find any customer reviews or other information regarding them. I need to move a couple of waste pipes prior to finishing the floor, so I'm still a few weeks away.

What is WTR ... and what risks are you referring to? Thanks
 
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Old 12-16-13, 11:42 AM
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' WTR ' = water acid-stain's fine altho the final finish will show any imprefections in the conc,,, same w/dye's as they're also translucent + crks act like a sponge so there'll be more concentrated acid/dye in a crk,,, i don't like wet 'cause its adds time to the job + how does 1 know when the floor's actually ' dry ' ?,,, IF you use acid stain, its not a problem tho,,, IF you're moving pipe, any conc floor repr will also different than existing conc,,,just my po
 
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Old 12-16-13, 11:55 PM
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ok, sorry. Wasn't sure about that abbreviation. Based upon my current situation, slab full of adhesive/mastic, some concrete patch where waste pipe will be re-run, do you think elitecrete is right way to go? or would you suggest another finish? Other than what was mentioned above, the slab is structurally in pretty good condition for a 1965 home.

The only other option I can think of is tile ... I want to avoid plank, carpet, etc... because of the inevitable pipe burst or water getting down there one day. I appreciate all the info. Thanks!
 
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Old 12-17-13, 02:32 AM
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I'd suggest re-reading the last paragraph of Post No. 5. Couldn't say it any better myself.
 
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Old 12-19-13, 01:56 AM
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I've considered tile and actually already put porcelain is one small area. I was thinking the prep work for tile would be similar or the same to the concrete treatment. Nobody recommends laying tile over mastic and carpet adhesive.
 
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Old 12-19-13, 04:04 AM
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my thought's this - thread began by mentioning eC,,, IF you want to use a dec conc product, eC's the best complete system impo,,, doesn't mean you're not well-served by tile or carpet, or eng wood flooring
 
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