Exterior Foundation Waterproofing ?

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Old 04-01-14, 10:16 PM
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Exterior Foundation Waterproofing ?

Hello Everyone,

In the past year I've had two incidents of water getting into basement. It only happens during very heavy rain with a NE Wind and a saturated ground. I thought I had resolved this but after a recent rain, water found its way in. I'm in the process of finishing my basement and can't continue until this is resolved. The water enters the basement where the water main pipe enters the house, a few feet above the foundation footing. There isn't any visible hole or crack around the water main pipe, it simply forces it's way through when the ground is very saturated. And it comes through with some force.

I've spoken with a basement waterproofing company and they have a good reputation. He proposed excavation to the footing, cleaning the foundation wall, hydraulic cement for any cracks, tar, and installing a voltex membrane over the foundation wall. I'm prepared to do this, but how would this resolve the water entering through the pipe? I'm going to ask this question back to him, but I was curious whether anyone had any thoughts on how this should be handled. Thank you in advance
 
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Old 04-02-14, 03:14 AM
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just curious - upstate or metro ?

IF water is entering where the pipe penetration's located, why not just fix that part ? ' tar ' is NOT the correct material & must be applied hot in any event,,, suggest hlm5000 or hydralastic836 as the correct alternate.

we do this work every day & i'd have a bigger boat if everyone did what's proposed for you to fix such a small leak,,, however, in fairness to your contractor, you might not be describing the problem accurately or completely
 
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Old 04-02-14, 08:30 AM
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I had the exact same problem and had two different reputable waterproofing companies propose the same fix. It's not clear whether your company will do just part of the wall or that whole side of the house. But the rationale from the contractors I spoke to was that if it only happens in '100 year rains' that means there was probably no inherent drainage issues with the property and just that small section of wall around the pipe needed to be fixed. So they proposed to excavate that section and do exactly what your company proposed. Seal around the pipe and seal the sections of wall immediately around it.

Here's the thing: If you're excavating anyway, you might as well patch that whole section of wall wherever it needs it and not just near the pipe. Perfect time to handle any other areas that may be prone to leakage in the future since the most expensive labor, the excavating itself, is already done anyway. If you think about it, it would be kind of silly to just seal around that pipe and then back fill the area if there are a bunch of cracks or other issues around it that could cause problems later. He'll probably want to patch whatever he can get at while he's down there so he won't get blamed for another leak that happens 2 feet over from the pipe a few months down the line.
 
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Old 04-02-14, 03:42 PM
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Thank you for the responses. The home is located on Long Island and was built around 1965. The quote was to do this entire section of foundation wall and replace two window wells in the process. I'm still awaiting to discuss sealing the water-main pipe with the contractor and will update the thread with his response. I'm pretty sure I'm describing the problem correctly, however it's possible he has other plans to seal the pipe.

With regards to your suggestion; hlm5000 or hydralastic836, are these materials applied around the pipe? I was doing some research and several companies had suggested using polyurethane grout injections around the pipe.
 
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Old 04-02-14, 08:38 PM
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I agree with eharri, if you are going to excavate, you might as well do the entire section. I used to do a lot of them as part of a crew. We used the same process as what your contractor described. The boss charged about $120 per linear foot. That was about 10 years ago. Based on what you said, 10 feet would be plenty. It's a one day job. Did you get a price?
 
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Old 04-03-14, 05:21 AM
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The quote is for $2300.00 which sounds reasonable. It covers excavating about 30FT of foundation wall, waterproofing and window well replacement.

Did the excavation / waterproofing usually fix the water issue? I spoke to another person who said that after the excavation the water was re-routed and found a different entry way. My main issue is how they deal with the pipe where I know the water is entering from.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 06:34 AM
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That's a decent price for 30 feet. We never had all call back because the water found another entry point. Exactly what do you call the "main pipe"? Do you mean the cold water feed or the main drain? If it's the main drain, you might want to change it to PVC, if it's cast iron.

The contractor should dig a few inches below the footing & cover it with the membrane to keep the water away from it. Then he should throw a couple yards a #8 gravel, along the bottom, before he back fills. You also mentioned 2 window wells. Will they have surface collectors & dry wells?
 
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Old 04-03-14, 06:58 AM
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The water enters the house around my water main pipe. This is the feed from the water meter. The pipe traverses the foundation wall as copper, not PVC. I'm not sure if I can use PVC through the foundation? It's about 18" or 24" from the slab floor in the basement.

That was one thing I was wondering I should consider replacing that pipe when it's excavated, but that would rely on some coordination between the contractor and a plumber.
 
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Old 04-03-14, 02:29 PM
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Since it's the cold water feed, it will stay as copper. I would definitely change the service. The plumber can dig his trench on the same day or the day before as the contractor.
 
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Old 04-05-14, 03:39 PM
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grout injection's overkill usually for this problem + it mainly helps the contractor meet boat pymts,,, as long as the penetrations open, accessible, & clean, just put on some plastic gloves & have at it,,, could also cover the patch w/small piece of rubber sheeting for more protection,,, them smear some stuff on again to cover the sheeting

then again, your contractor should know this method but i understand his encouragement for the injection - boats ARE expensive
 
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