DAP All-Purpose Stucco Patch Curing Questions

Reply

  #1  
Old 06-16-14, 01:00 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
DAP All-Purpose Stucco Patch Curing Questions

Sorry for the length of this post, I want to make sure I covered all the information.

I have started the major project of painting our house. It is stucco with many places where the stucco is coming off. I dug about 3-4" down on all the walls, scraped off all the chipped paint and stucco, sealed all holes and cracks, cleaned the areas well, applied a concrete bonding agant to all the bare areas and then applied the DAP All-Purpose Stucco Patch. Once the Stucco Patch is cured I will apply 2 coats of Drylok WeatherProofing to all the Stucco Patch areas, then apply the paint.

When I called DAP before applying the Stucco Patch they told me to let the Stucco Patch cure for 30-45 days. I purchased the paint from Dunn-Edwards and they advised me that even after the 30-45 days I would need to check the PH Level. They gave me a bottle of Phenolphthalein Solution to drip on the Stucco Patch, they said if it turns purple I would need to wait. Well, after 30 days I tested this morning and it turned BRIGHT PURPLE. I did some reading online and saw that if the PH Level was still high I should give the Stucco Patch a very small misting of water. I did this this morning but noticed that some of the areas started to look grainey and was now mushy to the touch. I called DAP, they told me not to worry about the PH Level, that their Stucco Patch only had to cure for 3 days and then could be painted. They said they do not tell their users to test for PH nor do they test their Stucco Patch for PH. All they state is that the Stucco Patch is paintable on 3 days.

I'm now very concerned that I screwed up that section of the wall and now have to scrape and reapply the Stucco Patch. As it dries it looks like the main areas are hardening again but the grainly places come off when I bruch my hand over it.

I'm also concerned that if I apply the Drylok to the areas I applied the Stucco Patch and then apply the paint that I will have issuse since the PH is not correct.

Anyone have any thoughts/ suggestions?????? I want to make sure I do this all right the first time as it is a MAJOR CHORE.

Thanks

Chris
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 06-16-14, 02:06 PM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,640
Received 315 Votes on 279 Posts
Welcome to the forums Chris!

I'm not familiar with DAP's stucco patch but I have painted miles of new stucco. I've heard that it needed to cure anywhere from 3-45 days. I do know if lime is added to the stucco mix it's better to wait longer but the biggest thing I've learned over the yrs is that the quality of the coating you use is the most important factor. When a cheap masonry paint is used it doesn't seem to help much if you wait a month - the paint color will fade in 1-2 yrs. If a quality paint is used and the stucco is 3 days old before the primer/paint is applied - it's rare to have any issues with the paint job.

Why do you feel the need to use drylok? Most any exterior latex primer works fine over stucco, in fact a thinned down version of the top coat does fine .... never thin house paint [or primer] more than 10%
 
  #3  
Old 06-16-14, 03:17 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hello,

Thanks for the welcome and the information.

I'm using Dunn-Edwards Spartashield 100% Acrylic Flat Exterior Paint. It is their mid-level paint.

It was suggested that I use the Dry-Lok only on the places I applied the DAP Stucco Patch due to past water intrusion from my neighbor's sprinklers hitting the house.

I did not plan on using a primer anywhere on the house. Just applying 2 coats of the Dry-Lok on the DAP Stucco Patch with a brush then rolling on 1 coat of the non-thinned paint.

Chris
 
  #4  
Old 06-17-14, 03:05 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,640
Received 315 Votes on 279 Posts
Drylok does a good job of waterproofing masonry. 1 coat should be sufficient. Generally it isn't needed over stucco and I'm not sure that applying it just in certain areas will make much difference .... but it shouldn't be applied over paint. The best way to waterproof exterior masonry is to apply a coat of elastomeric paint for the finish coat. Because of it's nature, elastomeric paints don't cover as much sq. footage which means you need more paint, increasing the material cost.

Any chance of getting the neighbor to readjust his sprinklers so it doesn't hit your house?
 
  #5  
Old 06-17-14, 05:44 PM
S
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I was told it would be good to apply the Dry-Lok to the places I applied the Stucco Patch but to avoid applying it on the existing painted areas since it serve no purpose and be a waste of material. The Dry-Lok instructions say to use two coats and allow 3 hours dry time between coats. I don't have any bare masonry, just the places I applied the Stucco Patch to and the existing paint on the house. I'm using the Dunn-Edwards 100% Acrylic Exterior Paint I mentioned earlier to paint the entire house. I have already purchased it and it has been tinted per my HOA color rules.

I'm concerned that the Stucco Patch will be OK to apply the Dry-Loc to since when I got it wet earlier it turned grainy and would easily brush off. The Stucco Patch has had some time to dry and it looks like it hardened up again. DAP said to wait 3 days after I got it wet to allow it to cure again before applying the Dry-Lok. There are some areas where I am still able to bush my hand over and some powder still comes off, although not as much.

Hopefully when I hit ithe Stucco Patch with the Dry-Lok it will not turn grainy and come off. Once the Dry-Lok, and then the paint, are applied and dry hopefully it will all help to lock down the Stucco Patch.

I'm concerned that the PH test solution still turns bright purple when I apply it. Again DAP said don't worry about it, just go ahead and paint it.
 
  #6  
Old 06-18-14, 03:38 AM
M
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 47,640
Received 315 Votes on 279 Posts
I think the main reason Drylok states 2 coats on the label is they are afraid someone might not apply it thick enough with no missed spots for it to be effective. I've applied a lot of drylok over the yrs but always just one coat. My biggest concern with spot priming with drylok is it might show a texture/coating difference as it's a lot heavier than the finish paint you'll be applying over it. It's always a good idea to take a broom and brush off stucco before applying any coating. Remove what is loose [grainy/dusty] and rely on the paint to bind up the rest.

While I have used Dunn-Edwards coatings in the past, I've never used it often enough to form an opinion about it. Generally, most paint manufacturers sell a range of coatings from their cheapest [usually not fit for use] to their best. Normally you do ok if you use the mid line or better.

I've successfully applied 1,000's of gallons of paint to new stucco with way less than 1% ever being tested for PH. IMO you are worrying too much over something that isn't likely to impact the paint job.
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: