An asphalt driveway runs along side of a house. The driveway edge is 2' from the house foundation. In that 2' is soil and grass which has been washing out because the driveway is steep. The soil washed out and the edge is crumbling but is still intact with no big chunks missing. I plan to make a wood form for a 6 wide concrete border flush with the top of the driveway and going a few inches deeper than the driveway and possibly mushrooming out the bottom for extra support. I would like to not have the concrete flush with the top of the driveway so that grass can grow there instead of seeing concrete (although i would mix the concrete with black dye), but I don't want to risk leaving the concrete 2" shy of the top of the asphalt because it wouldn't hold the asphalt in as well. The asphalt's only about 4" thick. Does anyone have a better, low-cost idea to sort of hide the reinforcement, whether it's masonry or not? I was planning to use regular high-strength sacrete [url=http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/High-Strength-Concrete-Mix]High Strength Concrete Mix - Sakrete[/url] And over the crumbled sections, I'll put something like blacktop patch [url=http://www.sakrete.com/products/detail.cfm/prod_alias/All-Weather-Blacktop-Patch]All Weather Blacktop Patch - Sakrete - For use in any temperature, wet or dry conditions.[/url] although I've never seen it ^ in stores except for the cold patch which I think requires removing the crumbled parts, but I'll see what I can get to fix the crumbled parts which should be fine even if left as is as long as the border is secure. thanks

This is a follow-up from this post a while back: [url]http://www.doityourself.com/forum/bricks-masonry-cinder-block-paving-walking-stones-asphalt-concrete/528633-diy-foundation-repair.html[/url] There's a whole story on this situation, but basically, right now plan is a DIY foundation repair. Will have garage floor removed, likely next year, along with 48" of material under the floor, and proper fill added, as per structural engineer's recommendation. At that time, will have pros fix this corner. Meanwhile...looking for advice. [ATTACH]36211[/ATTACH] In the pic you can see how the fill under the floor has sunk and the floor is hanging on the foundation. Any comments on the fact surface A is only 3" thick? Is making the top of the foundation wall thinner to accommodate the garage floor normal? The horizontal cracking is where thinner wall becomes 8". Regardless, plan is to cut out some of the garage floor on the inside so I can form the inside of the pour, and pour from the inside (under my workbench...). Here are my questions: - Plan is to add rebar dowels along all surfaces. How deep should the dowels be anchored? How far should they protrude? How far apart should they be spaced? - Should I taper these surfaces inward or outward or something? - The grinder leaves a very smooth surface, should this be roughed up? - to create the best possible bond between old and new concrete, plan is to use wire brush and muriatic acid -- is there a better approach to prep the surfaces? - Plan is to use an adhesive and the instructions say I can brush it on, or make a slurry and use that -- what is best? - Plan is to leave the jack post you see holding up the corner and encase it in concrete -- is there a better solution? - Finally, what concrete to use? These are the products the local Lowes has: [URL="http://quikrete.com/PDFs/ConcreteSelectorGuide.pdf"]http://quikrete.com/PDFs/ConcreteSelectorGuide.pdf[/URL] - Any other thoughts? Thanks! Geoff Ottawa, Canada