I'm building concrete block walls to support the stairs on the sides and back. The stairs rise about 40 inches and will run about 60 inches.

questions:

1. Should i try to slope the concrete block sides with the stairs or should the sides be 40 inches high all the way.

2. is it ok to submerge 2 inch steel pipe into the concrete to provide support for hand rail? i'm wondering about steel rusting and expanding .

3.I plan to use large rock as fill. should if fill the concrete blocks with concrete for more strength?

4. Im using 8 inch wide wood for riser forms and attaching them temporarily to concrete blocks. do i need special screws to drill into concrete blocks?

Thanks

 

You are correct about the pipe possibly expanding as it rusts. If you want to place a pipe into the concrete use stainless steel or PVC to avoid that problem. I'm having a hard time following the rest of your post, can you please provide a picture of the area and a sketch of what you intend to do. I really don't understand the eating white wood for riser forms attached to concrete blocks and how that's going to work.

 

http://stairs4u.com/b/a/concretestairsbetweenblockw.gif

concrete blocks sides like in the picture except my stairs climb up to a porch. just wondering if that is a good look or if i should have the concrete blocks angle down at same angle as stairs. Not sure if
im up to cutting blocks etc.

As far as pvc pipe , to do you mean put short piece in concrete and then put the steel pipe inside the pvc pipe? its galvanized steel pipe that has been outside for 50 years and has not rusted.

 

Galvanized steel pipe isn't likely to corrode very quickly, whether embedded in concrete or not. But since you're pouring concrete and installing pipe hand rails, why bother doing anything with concrete block? Just form and pour the stairway, as a free-standing unit. Run it solid to the ground, or make it suspended so the kids have something to play under.

 

Whether you leave the concrete blocks like in the picture or angle them down is totally up to you, either one would work fine. You could also consider stair stepping the blocks down so you wouldn't have to worry about cutting them. What I was thinking of as far as the pipe was actually square PVC fence posts for your railing. However galvanized pipe like you mentioned would probably also work very well and not be susceptible to rusting.

Your best bet to hold the forms for the risers would be to basically use upside down stairway stringers and attach your wood forms to them. That would be much more secure and easier to remove than just attaching the cross form for each riser separately. Don't forget that the footings need to go below the frost line for your area.

 

forming is about finished. need some more rocks and rebar sloping downhill for the thin parts between steps. snow chain. axle. etc. humbling so far.

 

It's looking good! Make sure you don't get it to send between steps, that's the stress point and very subject to cracking.

 

You might want to add some kickers near the midpoints of the riser forms, to avoid them developing an outward curve as the concrete is being consolidated. Keep in mind that you'll be (gently) removing the forms shortly after the concrete has taken its initial set, to rub it up pretty and work some cream into the air voids.

I'm not sure placing stairway (or any) concrete on loose rubble is a good idea, as cracks are likely to develop as the uncompacted fill and concrete settle over time.

 

thanks,guys. Edger kept bringing up rocks and I didnt have patience so gave up on that. One of the steps was a bit like jelly with form off but seems ok. I got rid of loose granular fill and used rubble rock and stone. hoping that stairs lean against house and not much wait on rubble. thanks again