Building gate on a block fence
#1
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Building gate on a block fence
I am no stranger to diy. This would however be my first time messing with masonry. I would like to build an rv access get between pillars of my block fence. I have no idea how to cut out the block between the pillars or how to reinforce the pillars. I also have no idea how to mount or anchor the wrought iron gate end posts to the pillars. Any help is very much appreciated. Thank you




Last edited by eclipso; 01-20-15 at 02:28 PM.
#2
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Welcome to the forums!
For the most part you can chisel out the mortar and remove individual blocks. You might have to rebuild the pillars to make them look right, all depends on how it comes apart. I'd probably cement anchor bolts into the pillar to attache the wood to. How wide is this gate going to be?
For the most part you can chisel out the mortar and remove individual blocks. You might have to rebuild the pillars to make them look right, all depends on how it comes apart. I'd probably cement anchor bolts into the pillar to attache the wood to. How wide is this gate going to be?
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Thank you. Between the two current pillars is 9 feet. I am hoping to have it at least that wide. How do I reinforce the pillars ? My current walk gate on the other side of the house has no wood and has square tubing bolted to the blocks
#4
I'd install vertical square steel tubes, flush inside the recesses in each pilaster, after you've removed the field blocks and top cap (cover) blocks from each. If the pilasters are not already filled with concrete, anchoring the steel tubes can be done by drilling 3 or 4 holes through the tube walls and corresponding locations in the pilaster block webs, and then welding some heavy all-thread anchor rods in each hole, long enough to project through the holes you drilled in the web walls. Anchorage will be provided by the new concrete you then fill the open webs with, surrounding the projecting all-thread anchor rods. If the pilasters are already filled with concrete, you'll have to drill holes into it and use an epoxy gel to embed the steel tubes' anchor rods. You shouldn't need any additional reinforcement if you use heavy-enough steel tubing recessed/anchored in the pilasters.
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Thanks. I'm sorry though but it sounds somewhat Greek to me. Would you happen to have some pics so I could understand. I'm not familiar with masonry terminology. I went out and looked at the other gate and it looks like they used a C block on the ends to make the pillars. Then I can tell it has bolts going through the 1 inch square tubes but what they scew into is beyond me. Maybe they epoxied them in like you said.
#6
Where in AZ are you? - Many cities have standard details for the construction of the privacy fences that are commonly used or required. Check to see if your city has standard details for construction.
to see what you are probably looking at.
How thick are blocks in the wall? - 4", 6" or 8"? It looks like the block are inserted into the pilaster 1-1/2" to 2". I have seen some walls with 4" block and 12x16 pilasters and some are 8" thick block and 16x16 pilasters.
If you take a hammer and chisel, you can pop off one of the caps on the pilasters to see if it is already grouted. That will also give you a clue to how far the block go into the pilaster.
Most of the cities in southern AZ and CA have firm standards (not like eastern areas) that make thing more predictable. If you have 4" or possibly 6", you might have more joint reinforcement embedded in some of the horizontal joints.
Privacy walls between residences are not always built like the exterior walls the enclose a development that need more structural strength because of importance and safety since they are mainly for privacy.
Dick
to see what you are probably looking at.
How thick are blocks in the wall? - 4", 6" or 8"? It looks like the block are inserted into the pilaster 1-1/2" to 2". I have seen some walls with 4" block and 12x16 pilasters and some are 8" thick block and 16x16 pilasters.
If you take a hammer and chisel, you can pop off one of the caps on the pilasters to see if it is already grouted. That will also give you a clue to how far the block go into the pilaster.
Most of the cities in southern AZ and CA have firm standards (not like eastern areas) that make thing more predictable. If you have 4" or possibly 6", you might have more joint reinforcement embedded in some of the horizontal joints.
Privacy walls between residences are not always built like the exterior walls the enclose a development that need more structural strength because of importance and safety since they are mainly for privacy.
Dick
#7
Sorry, no pix to show you (they're all in my head). I tried to use terms that are relatively common in concrete block work. You could do yourself a favor, and go visit a concrete block supply retailer, along with a fencing supply place. The larger ones often have a bunch of accessories on display for attaching gate hardware to block fences, and most will have knowledgeable sales reps who can walk you through the process.
#8
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rent a demo saw w/conc blade ( i'd use 14" 'cause we own 'em ),,, cut down the pilasters from both sides & knock down the wall - careful it doesn't fall on you 1st so use your head when sawing,,, either fill the pilasters w/vibrated conc or grout so your hinge bolts have a good purchase - lead drop-in's or 2/2 threaded rod thru bolts,,, you'll probably need an xtra hand adjusting gates so they're level
good luck !
good luck !
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I took off two of the pilaster caps today. It appears that they filled in the centers with some concrete. I think it like to remove all solid fence bricks from between the pilasters and then anchor steel square stock to the pilasters and then mount the gate hinges from the square stock. This this sound about right ? Thanks