adding onto concrete step

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Old 04-17-15, 12:00 PM
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adding onto concrete step

The top step going to the road at my son's place as all but disappeared over years of widening and paving the road. His girlfriend's young son catches the school bus at the top of the steps. Because the top step/tread is now less than 5" wide he has a hard time.

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What I've thought about doing is forming up 6" deep and pouring it full of concrete. Is there anything special that needs to be done? I though about using cut nails to help promote a bond or do I need to drill and use rebar? something else?
 
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Old 04-17-15, 06:28 PM
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When you say 6" deep, do you mean adding 6" to the existing 5" width? Do you plan to mix the concrete by hand?
 
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Old 04-18-15, 03:37 AM
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we'd drill 4" deep holes at different angles & insert 8" carriage bolts epoxied into place (side AND bottom ) then form & place/finish the conc,,, clean existing conc well &, prior to placing conc, coat w/grout or ceement paste,,, this is a lot of work when it'd be much easier to tell the lad ' watch your step ! ',,, he does this 5d a week, right ?

good luck !
 
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Old 04-18-15, 04:06 AM
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I think the kid is 6 yrs old and he's small for his age. Currently he needs help getting on/off the bus as it stops so close to the edge of the narrow road he can't get a good foot hold on what's left of the top step.

What type of epoxy is used to glue the bolts in place?
 
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Old 04-19-15, 06:28 PM
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any apron/vest store, there's caulk tube mtl in the masonry section w/dynamic mixer that screws onto the end - think by sika,,, just make sure the holes are dust-free
 
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Old 04-20-15, 04:22 AM
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thanks
It will probably be a week or two before I get to it, not exactly looking forward to it. I never knew the main difference between working for a living and retirement is when retired you still work but don't get paid
 
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Old 04-20-15, 04:39 AM
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heard that the mixer described is a ' static ' tube that both materials flow into & then get mixed in the tube,,, ' dynamic ' mixer is the old rotating thing-a-ma-jig that we used when applying 200d jnt sealants on airport aprons,,, sorry for the error
 
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Old 04-21-15, 06:21 AM
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Why not build a proper wooden set of steps with landing at the top and go over what is currently none functioning steps? If you make the top step deeper, you will have to do it for each step or you just move the trip hazard down one step. You also have a code type violation as the height of the risers are not consistent and therefore create a whole new hazard. Save the cement for some footers for your new wood steps.

Plus I love the smell of fresh cut wood......
 
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Old 04-21-15, 07:00 AM
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He isn't going to change the height of the riser. The word deeper can be confusing.
 
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Old 04-21-15, 08:05 AM
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I didn't have a tape measure with me when I looked at it but the treads are approximately 2' deep, the risers appear to be slightly higher than 8" There are 5 or 6 steps total. The house was built 70+ yrs ago, I don't know when the sidewalk and steps were poured.

I'm thinking extending the top step is going to be the easiest/cheapest fix although I did consider cutting the asphalt to expose more of the top step but my son is scared we'd get in trouble with the county.

It's my understanding the kid's biggest issue is keeping his balance on the top step that only has 4"-5" of the tread exposed.
 
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Old 04-21-15, 01:30 PM
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What is the thickness of the asphalt? That is the out of code issue as it looks different that the rest of the risers. The different tread depths is another potential trip hazard but I don't think it is a code issue, just an awkward mismatch that will catch a couple of people off guard.
 
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Old 04-21-15, 02:06 PM
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Where the asphalt meets the concrete is where the boy has problems. I don't know how thick it is but would assume the main part of the road is whatever the standard thickness would be. They added extra on the side to make the transistion. You can see where the asphalt is broke up in front of the mailbox.
 
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Old 04-21-15, 03:09 PM
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I vote for widening the top step, using concrete--least amount of work for the best solution. Shouldn't take much more than 2 sacks of some decent bagged mix. If you go with cheap stuff, you run the risk of it starting to crumble and deteriorate, making more of a hazard for the lad. I'd use Quikrete 5000, as it develops good strength and is durable. Assuming it's (properly) mixed, placed and finished. A single No. 4 bar centered and embedded in the mud, tied to the anchor bolts you dowel into the top existing step, will minimize the chance of any transverse cracks developing. If you want to go the Cadillac route, you could even add a simple hand rail on one side.
 
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