concrete slab patio redo

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  #1  
Old 06-30-15, 07:27 AM
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concrete slab patio redo

Hi gang. So here is the situation. We have a 650 sf slab patio at the newly purchased home. It has some slope/drainage issues on the concrete slab in my opinion, both based on where I see water pool after rain, and cracks I see. Its about a 20 year old patio so I know concrete wont last forever. I don’t think having a negative slope off a neighboring golf course helps either! I have already added some French drains in yard to help some with the negative slope of backyard…..but still need to address the lack of “fall” on actual patio no matter what solution I take.

So I have had a few local guys come by to offer opinion. Everyone has a different take.

1) The guy who specializes in concrete wants to use Ardex products (ARDIFIX and K301 exterior self levelers) to saw out, fill cracks, address the slope and do a topcoat of about 1/8 inch with the K301. Maybe do like an acid finish )after 30 days). He feels the cracks can be repaired if a good commercial product is used. He supposedly worked for our state DOT. Maybe cheapest solution. But can this work????
2) The mason wants to do to pavers. Blowing up the slab and starting fresh. Most expensive I think
3) And the wife would really prefer slate or some kind of flagstone/veneer. I think partly because she/we hope we might be able to just build on the slab if its repaired/prepped right. And because I myself have done quite a few tile jobs….though never exterior. So maybe save SOME on labor.

Attached a few photos. Looking for some advice. What should I be asking these guys? What do I need to look out for? Are any of these just totally undoable or not recommended. As always, THANKS!
 
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  #2  
Old 06-30-15, 03:35 PM
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can I do the Ardex patch fix, is the #1 question. thanks
 
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Old 06-30-15, 06:45 PM
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Actually, choice #1 would be my last choice. Your wife's idea is pretty good. I would go with the slate or the pavers first.
 
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Old 06-30-15, 07:15 PM
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I agree with Pulpo.

Any thin coating will not stop the cracks telegraphing through it. Too bad there were no control joints sawed when it was built. The curved nature of the crack indicates that there may be a soil difference that contributed to the cracking. - Usually a shrinkage crack is reasonably straight near the middle of the slab, but I saw some other cracks intersecting the main crack and spreading out, which indicates slab movement for some reason or other.

Individual units (slate or pavers) can adjust (or hide cracks easier). You could run into a problem with the doors because the slab was poured too high when it was placed.

Dick
 
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Old 07-02-15, 03:34 PM
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don't think the random cracking should be unanticipated as it looks as if the slab tried to relieve the tension it was experiencing,,, contraction jnts would've probably prevented this,,, chasing crks & filling w/epoxy ( our stuff's roadware @ $70 per tube but no h/o-diy'er would pay that price not as long as the apron/vest stores have something cheaper ) then full-depth sawing of proper jnts is the 1st step,,, THEN you can have a thin polymer-modified conc o'lay placed & it'll last til your bride tires of it

a proper repair isn't cheap but patching's more expensive as you'll need to do it again & again
 
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Old 07-03-15, 08:18 PM
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I'd go with pavers myself. If you can live with the slightly uneven surface they present for the patio furniture's legs, that is.
 
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Old 07-04-15, 09:30 AM
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pavers IF your door swings inside,,, if it swings out, you'll never use it again unless you saw off the btm

however, even if you use pavers, you may inadvertently direct wtr TO the house - ALWAYS a ixnay issue
 
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Old 07-04-15, 10:32 AM
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pavers IF your door swings inside,,, if it swings out, you'll never use it again unless you saw off the btm

however, even if you use pavers, you may inadvertently direct wtr TO the house - ALWAYS a ixnay issue
I believe if you read the OP the person that proposed that was going to remove the entire existing slab prior to installing them.
 
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