Sealing concrete curbing not working!

Reply

  #1  
Old 07-09-15, 03:39 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Sealing concrete curbing not working!

I had concrete curbing put in a few years ago. It was never sealed. I bought some concrete sealer today (Seal-Krete Clear-Seal Gloss) and applied it with a roller. After it dried it didn't look any different (from what I read, this sealer is supposed to make the curbing look like it does when it's wet- meaning, the color is richer and there is a gloss to it). I then applied a second coat. Still, no difference. What am I doing wrong? Am I using the wrong product?

Thank you in advance!
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 07-09-15, 03:50 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
What was the reason for sealing it, in the first place? What difference in appearance did you expect?
 
  #3  
Old 07-09-15, 03:51 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
See photo below of sealed vs unsealed (not mine, just a sample pic). My reason for sealing was to enhance the natural color of the stone and make it glossy. (The description of the product said it enhances the color of the concrete (like it does when it is wet) and that it would have a glossy shine to it).

Name:  Color-Difference.jpg
Views: 5262
Size:  44.8 KB
 
  #4  
Old 07-09-15, 04:06 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So, you used it strictly for aesthetics. The best thing that I can suggest is to contact the company directly. It's not a surprise that a product doesn't live up to the manufactuure's promises.
 
  #5  
Old 07-09-15, 04:07 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Yes, just for aesthetics. Is there a better sealer you can recommend for concrete curbing? Or am I using the wrong product entirely?

Thank you.
 
  #6  
Old 07-09-15, 04:53 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I never recommend sealers, of any kind. I don't believe in them. Maybe someone else can help you with that. Sorry.
 
  #7  
Old 07-10-15, 04:12 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,067
Received 120 Votes on 107 Posts
Was the concrete clean before you applied the sealer? The sealer should make it look similar to what it does when wet with water. How big a change that is depends somewhat on both the age and composition of the concrete.
 
  #8  
Old 07-10-15, 04:34 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Thank you for the reply. Yes, we had it pressure washed about a week ago. It was completely clean and dry. I'm just not sure what to do at this point. Maybe I will try returning it and getting a different product?
 
  #9  
Old 07-10-15, 04:36 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,067
Received 120 Votes on 107 Posts
How did the wet concrete look immediately after pressure washing compare to the look after it was sealed? Now that it has sealer on it, it's not likely a different coating would provide a different result ..... unless you strip off what you already applied.
 
  #10  
Old 07-10-15, 04:55 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Oh, when it is wet, it looks beautiful! The color is darker and richer, and it has a slight shine to it. After I applied this sealer, it didn't look any different at all. It looks just like it does when it is dry (dull and faded). The sealer didn't change the appearance at all.

I only did a test application to a small portion of the curbing, so now if I wanted to I can still try a different product. This didn't work so I'm not sure what else to do...should I try an oil-based sealer?
 
  #11  
Old 07-10-15, 05:07 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,067
Received 120 Votes on 107 Posts
OK, that sounds like either a product failure or and error in how it was applied. I don't apply concrete sealers often enough to know a lot about the different sealers.
 
  #12  
Old 07-10-15, 05:51 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ok, thanks anyway. Can you tell me what type of product I would use to remove the sealer for the portion I did already apply? Do I use a regular stripper/paint remover?
 
  #13  
Old 07-10-15, 06:01 AM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
A gas powered pressure washer with a red tip would do it. Otherwise, any of the available strippers should work. Wear some heavy duty rubber gloves.
 
  #14  
Old 07-10-15, 06:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ok I will try that, thank you.
 
  #15  
Old 07-10-15, 06:22 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,067
Received 120 Votes on 107 Posts
I think Xylene dissolves a lot of concrete sealers. The red [zero] tip on a pressure washer should work also but you need to be careful so you don't 'etch' the concrete as it can be strong enough to cut a hole thru plywood. If you etch grooves in the concrete it will show in the finish.
 
  #16  
Old 07-10-15, 07:26 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Ok thanks. I have a cheapo electric pressure washer so I was going to go the stripper method anyway. I already have some Citri-Strip on hand, so I'll try that first and if that doesn't work I can try the Xylene.
 
  #17  
Old 07-11-15, 06:46 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 1,334
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
1st, was the sealer water OR solvent based ? better sealers are solvent-based & they're susceptible to xylene but wtr ain't
 
  #18  
Old 07-11-15, 06:51 AM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Electric pressure washers don't have the strength. That's why I specifically said gas powered.
 
  #19  
Old 07-11-15, 07:11 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Electric pressure washers don't have the strength. That's why I specifically said gas powered
Yes, I know that, that is why I had said I was going to go the stripper route. I only have a cheapo electric pressure washer.

1st, was the sealer water OR solvent based ? better sealers are solvent-based & they're susceptible to xylene but wtr ain't
It was water based. I used Seal-Krete Clear-Seal. So xylene will not work? I tried citri-strip last night but didn't have much luck. Is there a different type you can recommend that would work well on concrete?

Thank you for your help.
 
  #20  
Old 07-12-15, 09:59 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 1,334
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
franmar's ' beanee-doo ' will work - so will ' elephant snot ',,, i'm uncertain what size a ' red tip ' is for pressure washers as the ONLY tip we would EVER use is a wobbly nozzle ( turbo nozzle ),,, all other tips are jokes no matter how well made OR what size when it comes to working on conc - even when pressure washing driveways OR prior to repainting condo stucco surfaces, its the turbo nozzle that gets the work done better AND faster than all other nozzles

why more don't use them's beyond me
 
  #21  
Old 07-12-15, 11:46 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA - N.E.Tn
Posts: 46,067
Received 120 Votes on 107 Posts
A turbo nozzle rotates the water under force and is very aggressive at removing/cleaning. They work well on hard substrates like concrete but can damage softer substrates like wood if care isn't used. A red tip is a zero tip [straight point no fan] which has the strongest stream of all the normal tips. I don't remember the fan width but a yellow tip is narrower [stronger] than the white tip. There are also a few other color coded tips to choose from.
 
  #22  
Old 07-12-15, 08:42 PM
kellogg9's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
So u used a Water-based sealer. the problem with water-based sealers is that although a company may claim to have glossy wet look these types of sealers will usually look flat or with very low gloss (if at all). Solvent-based sealers is what gives gloss/wet look. The higher the solid % the higher the gloss. Xylene does NOT remove solvent-based sealers. It is a carrier and will simply re-melt the existing solvent sealer back to its original liquid form which is great if you over applied and want to correct it by rolling the excess to other areas. Most people think when a sealer loses its shine they need to apply more sealer...bad idea. Xylene is what you need to use. At least for the first 2 years -- the amount of time for how long top-coat sealers last. After that point applying light coat sealer to rejuvenate is what you do (not use xylene). Anyway, as for water-based sealers you dont want to use xylene since it will only work within the first 48 hours. After that i think you have to use a different chemical stripper e.g. sandblasting.

Anyway, i recommend you strip the existing water-based seal test area that you do have. And then get a very high solids (30% or more) solvent-based sealer. Btw, the higher the solids the darker your surface and the glossier it will be. You might want to add something like shark-grip (not sure what you call it in the States) to add more traction to the concrete since the glossier it is the slippery it gets in rain/snow.

Anyway, wanted to add my two cents since i saw some errors being made in this thread.
 
  #23  
Old 07-12-15, 08:57 PM
kellogg9's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I never recommend sealers, of any kind. I don't believe in them. Maybe someone else can help you with that. Sorry.
Foolish! Although top-coat sealers have limited protection (but do protect) and is primarily for aesthetics, not using sealers of any kind is a ticket to early concrete deterioration. Although water is what gave the concrete strength it is what ultimately will destroy it (e.g. cracks will always form on concrete and if water gets in and makes its way to the rebar you can start a chain reaction and bye-bye concrete). I recommend concretes be doused with silane and/or silane-siloxane blends to help waterproof (once they react they are part of the concrete) -- good protection for 5-7 years. Top-coat sealers can wear away by simple abbrasion so around 2 years is their lifespan. Xylene wash each year will help restore gloss asthetics -- most people think to re-apply the sealer which is a bad idea.
 
  #24  
Old 07-12-15, 09:08 PM
kellogg9's Avatar
Member
Join Date: May 2015
Location: Canada
Posts: 8
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I think Xylene dissolves a lot of concrete sealers. The red [zero] tip on a pressure washer should work also but you need to be careful so you don't 'etch' the concrete as it can be strong enough to cut a hole thru plywood. If you etch grooves in the concrete it will show in the finish.
Depending on your definition of "dissolve". If you mean dissolve in the sense of "removing" then its not that. It simply re-melts (re-wets) the existing sealer. Xylene is a carrier, usually used in most solvent-based sealers. And so reapplying it on a sealer concrete driveway will allow the existing acrylic compounds to float freely again in liquid form -- as if you had laid the sealer that day. Xylene is what people should use when they start to wonder why they see white spots or no gloss after 6-months. Most people instead just apply more sealer and feel content that the gloss is back only to find out 2 months later the white spots haven returned and no gloss (they've made the issue worse).

So that being said one could use xylene to re-wet the surface and then simply squeegee off the sealer. I'd recommend using BOTH xylene and a power washer since a power washer alone will not effectively remove all of the sealer (there will usually be residual sealer left). So xylene will re-wet it and then a power wash will officially remove it (since the sealer is in liquid form). One may likely need to wait a few minuntes for the xylene to react to the sealer -- in cases a natural bristle brush may be needed to scrub the xylene in. Keeping the surface wet (with xylene) is important, otherwise the sealer has gone back to sealing.
 
  #25  
Old 07-13-15, 12:49 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 49
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Anyway, i recommend you strip the existing water-based seal test area that you do have. And then get a very high solids (30% or more) solvent-based sealer.
Thank you, Kellogg, I will try that. I've already tried Citri-strip to remove the sealer, but it doesn't seem to be doing such a great job so I may have to try something more potent. Once I get the water-based sealer removed I will then use a solvent-based sealer. Thanks for your help.
 
  #26  
Old 07-13-15, 03:52 PM
Temporarily Suspended
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: NY
Posts: 10,986
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Foolish! Although top-coat sealers have limited protection (but do protect) and is primarily for aesthetics, not using sealers of any kind is a ticket to early concrete deterioration.
How long is early deterioration, about 50 years? Concrete has to breathe. Why choke it?
 
  #27  
Old 07-14-15, 10:56 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 1,334
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
tnx, mark - had forgotten as all we use are turbo's,,, obviously if 1 holds the nozzle too close, 1 can damage surfaces,,, pressure washers are difficult BUT IF it takes 1 longer than 2min to learn the 'how', better not do anything around the house

sometimes i think i'm posting so a wall OR box of rocks can read it,,, there ARE breathable sealers avail - we use 1 ALL the time - CSS - on all our decorative conc work - caution trying to use solvent over wtr-based sealers - you'll be sorry
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: