New door sill and stairs.


Old 02-03-16, 05:43 PM
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: usa
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New door sill and stairs.

Hello, I have a project. I have an idea of hot to maybe get er done but I want to see what professionals would recommend.

Basically I am finishing what was started on a house I bought. window was changed to a door. I am trying to figure out how to build the floor so I can put in a sill plate.
I purchased a 8" deep sill plate.

House is a concrete block build with raised floor (crawl space). Door is inswing.

I want to pour in a concrete stairs with upper landing to be equal to the interior floor (3/4 hardwood). Of course I will slope it, and will probably add a 1/2 ledge where landing meets wall to prevent water intrusion. Landing will be 2.5 - 3" thick with re-bar.

Problem is how should I go about having the concrete meet the interior floor. And how to block in the interior floor to meet the concrete (between the floor trusses)? I have searched many times online. no solid answers.

Pictures will be at end of this post. two show another doorway on this house. This one looks to be leaking a bit also. Dark piece is a filler 3/4 flooring and then 3 bits of broken concrete, then concrete landing. It is sloped.
Other two photos are the project. I have some block and then interior flooring. Block on outer ends is for the edge of stairs/landing.

insert braces between floor joists and add a extra short joist on right side.
lay tar paper down on top and down the side exposed to concrete.
Concrete the landing up to the wood and stop 1/8" short if possible. Caulk gap once set to prevent draft/bugs. Have 1/2 lip equal with wall.

Should sill plate sit between the door frame or under it? I would think under would be better.

Should I leave a gap between the concrete and the flooring, just incase water intrusion (although the sill will be sealed).

On the right side of project the last joist stops short of the door frame. Should I "T" in a short joist to provide support if stepped on?

Recommendations on re-bar? I planned just using some scrap bits I had laying around and put them long ways into concrete with none in the short direction.

Sorry about the length. thank you in advance for any help/ ideas

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Old 02-04-16, 05:53 AM
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: USA
Posts: 4,438
Received 25 Votes on 21 Posts
Got a real mess there.
None of that was done right.
Looks like a welcome mat for termites.
I own a home what was done just like that so I'll tell you what I had to do.
I supported the floor from under the house with a doubled up 2 X 6 and a couple of bottle jacks sitting on 2 X 12 pads.
Removed the whole door.
Busted out that row of block those notched joist are sitting on.
Filled the voids in the blocks below.
Sistered the joist with 2 X 8 pressure treated and added those "Tee's your talking about and cut them 1-1/2"" short so a pressure treated rim joist could be added, so it comes out even with the outside wall.
Added sub flooring making sure there was blocking where the new and old floors met.
Waterproofed the outside wall with Blue Skin. Folding it into the door opening to act as flashing.
Self Adhesive Waterproofing Membrane - Henry Company
I chose to install a whole new prehung door and installed it flush with the outside wall.
And added a piece of PVC lumber on the outside wall that extended out where the door trim ends.
It's just never a good idea to not have that step down under the threshold!
1" is not enough.
And having a flat area sticking out in an uncovered door way is a sure way to have water get in as you can see by your damaged flooring.

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