Hi all, 40 year old fieldstone front steps. Sagging/sinking on one side causing cracking. Tried digging a hole to jack up and backfill with concrete but after 3 feet and not getting underneath I quit because I don't want huge dig site up front. So I need some advice. Should I... A. Rip out the whole step, fill crack, build up the base and pour a new step? B. Fill cracks and re-pour a new step on top of old one compensating for the sag? C. Dig a big ass hole and jack it up and repair? D. Rip it all out and build a small deck as an entry? E. Build a small deck hiding the mess. F. Use the back door. More pics at: [URL]https://imgur.com/a/Zv5By[/URL] [ATTACH]68302[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68303[/ATTACH] [ATTACH]68304[/ATTACH]

Hi everyone, I am planning for the installation of a 1200 square foot concrete patio. In a normal situation we would excavate 10" to account for 6" compacted road crush and a 4" pad. My concern is the very high water table in my area. With all of the rain that we have received lately I am hitting water about 30" down. Living in a northern climate I am concerned with heaving and cracking. I have spoken with a number of local "experts" and have been presented with a few options. I'm really hoping for some advice and guidance. 1.) The first option presented was the standard approach using 6" road crush under a 4" concrete pad. Their position was that they over spec their pours and are confident this approach is all that is required. 2.) The second option presented was 6" of washed rock, 6 mil poly then the 4" pad. This approach does not use road crush. The logic there is that any water under the pad will wash away via the rock, either to the edges of the pad or back to the weeping tile around the house. 3.) The third option presented was 6" of washed rock, 4" of high density foam insulation then the 4" pad. The logic here is again, any water under the pad will wash away via the rock and any shifting of the pad will be absorbed via the insulation. 4.) The fourth option presented was 6" of road crush under the 4" pad as well as pilings every 10'. Using screw pilings with a post cap that is slightly larger than the piling post. The logic here is the cap is embedded into the concrete. If the pad heaves it will slide up and down the piling post. Also, the 10' spacing is the spacing used for structural stability such as pilings under a footing. The logic here is if the slab settles the pressure placed on the slab by the immovable piling will not crack the concrete as the pilings are close enough to support the weight of the slab. Knowing very little about concrete you can imagine how confused I am. I'm really looking for some guidance as I have no idea how to proceed.