Concrete up against asphalt shingle siding


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Old 08-25-16, 09:51 AM
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Concrete up against asphalt shingle siding

I have a concrete stoop that was poured against asphalt shingle siding. Behind the siding is a fiberboard backing, and then the rim joist. The concrete surface has spalled, and I was going to re-top it, but I'm stuck on the best way to protect the house from contact with the new concrete.

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Old 08-25-16, 01:24 PM
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I can't answer anything about your overlaying the concrete, but the vinyl siding can be removed. I would remove at least a full section to give a better understanding as to what you have behind it. Don't remove the nails holding it, just unsnap it from the nailheads. That way you can return it to the original position.
 
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Old 08-25-16, 03:47 PM
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Vinyl siding, green foam sheathing, asphalt siding, fiberboard sheathing, wood siding.

It looks like they poured the concrete originally straight against the asphalt siding, and the concrete block foundation below it. The vinyl was a later addition, and it then had concrete butted up against it in a previous skim coat patch (which spalled off).

The biggest problem is that the asphalt siding and fiberboard behind it is in terrible, crumbly shape, and I'm concerned about moisture. I know the right thing to do is demolish all of the concrete and start over, properly, but the budget's just not there.

I've kicked around the idea of using some window flashing tape, some of that Flex Seal rubber in a can, or some PVC trim plank to keep the new concrete away from the house. But I don't know how effective that would be.
 
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Old 08-25-16, 03:57 PM
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As Larry mentioned, the correct thing to do is to remove some of the vinyl siding and j-channel. You should probably put a 1/2" or 3/4" spacer (styrofoam would work well here) against the building first, nail it high so you can remove it after the cement is repaired. Be sure your cement is nice and straight, no dips.

After it cures, you will want to install a galvanized z-flashing against the house, which will protrude out onto the new concrete surface. You will then have a nice edge to caulk, using a good expansion joint sealant like NP1 or Loctite S10.

Then put the siding back on, I would assume you would want to use a new j-channel and you will probably need to install it a little higher, as the z-flashing will bump it up some. Cut the bottom edge of the siding as needed to fit.
 
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Old 08-25-16, 05:10 PM
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That stoop is far to gone to try and just add a topping mix.
It's to loose to even bond to.
 
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Old 08-25-16, 07:55 PM
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So just leave the asphalt siding as is, and flash over it with the galvanized? No other sealers or wraps or anything for it?
 
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Old 08-25-16, 08:01 PM
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Yep / nope........................................

IMO it would be a good idea to raise your topping up to meet the door sill nose... even if it means raising the siding a bit. That way you can caulk the door sill to the concrete too.
 
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Old 08-25-16, 08:47 PM
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I guess that was going to be my next question -- what about that area under the sill? Since that's where the asphalt is most deteriorated. Makes sense that if I raise it up and caulk it, it takes care of that area.

Will give it a go, thanks!
 
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Old 08-31-16, 04:00 PM
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XSleeper,

Getting ready to do this, just wanted to make sure I'm clear on everything. Here's a pic, excuse my drawing skills.

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Does that look about right? And I'll have about a 1/2" gap where the styrofoam was, just leave that gap open? No fillers or sealants?
 
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Old 08-31-16, 07:19 PM
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With that siding in place like that in place like that there's alway going to be issues.
Any stoop, deck, patio should have had the outside wall water proofed.
No way should it be making direct contact with the siding.
In your area that threshold should have been at least 6" below the stoop.
The way it is now you have a funnel directing water toward the home behind that stoop which can take out the sheathing, rim joist, floor joist.
No way is caulking the right way to fix this!!!
 
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Old 08-31-16, 07:23 PM
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Yes, Supersquirrel, that's the idea. You could even leave the foam in place if you put it in there as you have it drawn... nothing wrong with putting the flashing over it.
 
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Old 08-31-16, 08:21 PM
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Thanks, Sleeper.

Joe, I'm well aware that the installation was improper. I can't go back in time and fix that, and I don't have the resources, financial or otherwise, to completely remove and rebuild. I'm open to reasonable suggestions, if you have any.
 
 

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