Brick veneer on cmu

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  #1  
Old 03-06-17, 11:42 AM
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Brick veneer on cmu

Hello all, I'm getting ready to build a new house myself. I am having a walkout basement with the walkout in the rear and 3 sides covered. I am using 2x6s on the exterior walls of the upper house. So I am thinking that I need to use a 12" cmu for the basement walls then approx. a foot below grade, switch to a 8" block so I can lay the brick on the 12" then go up with the 8" block to the floor level. Am I right in thinking this?
I have the basement dug and am preparing to dig the footer 12" deep and 18" wide. I'm in upstate South Carolina and the soil is shale stone and clay.
Thanks for your input.
 
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  #2  
Old 03-06-17, 11:59 AM
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You can use 8" block then use a corbel block below grade.

Edit: I better retract that, it seems this old style method is no longer permitted in many areas.
 

Last edited by XSleeper; 03-06-17 at 12:20 PM.
  #3  
Old 03-06-17, 02:11 PM
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I wasn't aware of the Corbel block. That would be Ideal and cost saving. I'll have to check my local codes.
 
  #4  
Old 03-06-17, 02:22 PM
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CMU and Footer

Your plan to use 12" CMU's below grade to support the brick+8" CMU sounds correct. Check with your building inspector to confirm and also inquire regarding the required width of the footing. 18" seems too narrow.
 
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Old 03-06-17, 03:57 PM
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Footing width is usually at least 2x the width of the wall that sits on it.
 
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Old 09-30-17, 12:24 PM
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Changing plans on 2x6 walls, going with 2x4 walls

Hello, just getting back to the basement block. I am now thinking of the 18" footer with 8" block basement and 2x4 wall on top of it. It is going to only be one story, 10' walls on the sides. The 2x4 walls should leave enough room for the brick veneer on the 8" block. Am I right in thinking this? The cost savings is a major consideration since medical bills are playing a part now.
 
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Old 10-01-17, 01:23 PM
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Everything you ever wanted to know about brick veneer with wood frame backup: http://www.gobrick.com/portals/25/do...notes/tn28.pdf
 
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Old 10-01-17, 02:08 PM
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The 2x4 walls should leave enough room for the brick veneer on the 8" block.
The framed wall will sit on the sub-floor. Make the walls as thick as you want.
 
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Old 10-04-17, 07:24 AM
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You're right. Don't know what I was thinking. Thanks
 
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Old 10-21-17, 01:30 PM
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Laying block for the Basement

Finally getting ready to lay block for the basement. Of course the block don't come out right for my desired distance. Instead of cutting blocks, is there anything wrong with letting them hang out past the outside corner? It will not be seen.
 
  #11  
Old 10-21-17, 02:03 PM
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No you don't do that.

You cut the block to length with a saw, turn it around, so the square finished end is out, and you mortar it in. You generally want to fill the partial core that you cut with mortar. You use square end blocks for your corners. You can also insert that cut block somewhere else other than right at the corner. Your corner needs to be strong so its sometimes advantageous to put the cut block or blocks elsewhere on the wall.
 
  #12  
Old 01-09-19, 08:24 AM
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Backfilling new block basement

About to finish laying block for my basement and getting ready to backfill. I have used horizontal reinforcement every 3 rows and rebar vertically in the corners and a foot either way from the corners and every 4' on the walls. I dug out approximately 3 feet from the wall when I dug the basement. I know I need gravel and a french drain. I'm doing the french drain at the footer and then again 4 feet up. I'm on a mountain and have great drainage, but better safe than sorry.
My question is, since I have a 3 foot gap between the wall and the existing dirt. Can I somehow fill about 1 1/2 feet of gravel against the wall and then dirt behind it? I've thought about taking a couple sheets of plywood edge to edge and running a 2x6 across the top of both sides with a couple of eyelets bolted to them. Set in place, fill both sides then pull the plywood out with my backhoe. Is this even remotely feasible? Thanks for any help, ideas ect.
 
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Old 01-09-19, 09:23 AM
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You didn't mention damp proofing or a waterproof membrane. I hope you already have that up on the wall.

When backfilling and want to have crushed stone against the house I do it in stages. I dump a bucket of stone against the wall then dirt to fill between the stone and trench wall. Just keep repeating as you work your way up the wall. The transition between stone and soil won't be nice and straight but it works.
 
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Old 01-13-19, 06:56 AM
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Yes I will put the waterproofing on before backfilling. I live on a Hill/mountain and get very good drainage. Would it be safe to use the paint on waterproofing or do you recommend the membrane? After I replied I did more research and think I need both. I assume the membrane keeps the paint from chipping while backfilling?
 

Last edited by tlray; 01-13-19 at 07:53 AM.
  #15  
Old 01-13-19, 07:19 AM
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The membrane is the best. Having said that, the first house I built was all sand and well drained, so I used a trowel-on waterproofing and it was fine. Regardless of what you use, if your backfill has a lot of stone in it, I would suggest a protection board of some type. Because I'm in MN, I wanted some insulation as well as protection, so I used an extruded polystyrene rigid insulation; Dow SM as I recall.
 
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