increase concrete grade?
#1
04-10-17, 05:45 PM
increase concrete grade?
I have 2 floor leaks in a shed where snow melt comes in every spring.
It has been going on for some time since the bottom plate is rotten.
I believe the problem is that soil has built up over time and there is a big negative slope. The concrete on the front is only 6" high and isn't enough.
The rest of the concrete on the side is staggered, maybe 2' high, then 4', then 7' at the back.
How can I increase the height of the grade near the front?
Secondly, is there a way to use a product such as liquid rubber or something else to block the water getting in?
It has been going on for some time since the bottom plate is rotten.
I believe the problem is that soil has built up over time and there is a big negative slope. The concrete on the front is only 6" high and isn't enough.
The rest of the concrete on the side is staggered, maybe 2' high, then 4', then 7' at the back.
How can I increase the height of the grade near the front?
Secondly, is there a way to use a product such as liquid rubber or something else to block the water getting in?
#2
04-11-17, 01:01 AM
Member
If I'm seeing this correctly the shed is somewhat built into a hill?
If your getting water into the shed it's due to the slope towards the building. You really need to get a drain around the perimeter so the water is directed away from the shed.
No liquid rubber material, it's a drainage problem.
If your getting water into the shed it's due to the slope towards the building. You really need to get a drain around the perimeter so the water is directed away from the shed.
No liquid rubber material, it's a drainage problem.
#3
04-11-17, 03:57 AM
The higher parts of the shed do not leak even though they are in the hill, there is 1 section on the side where the water is getting between the wood cladding and the concrete.
The other section is on the front where there is no hill, same thing, water getting between wood cladding and the concrete and coming in.
Agree drainage would help but not sure it will solve the melt water melting down the cladding and then seeping in.
The other section is on the front where there is no hill, same thing, water getting between wood cladding and the concrete and coming in.
Agree drainage would help but not sure it will solve the melt water melting down the cladding and then seeping in.
#5
04-11-17, 05:27 PM
Needs a back hoe or a lot of digging to do that. Doesn't prevent the snow build up though, which I think is how the water's getting in rather than from the soil surface. Rest of the shed is dry even with a negative slope.
What's the best way to cut out the rotten bottom plate? Support the rafters with 2x2s? There's not much weight on the roof.
What's the best way to cut out the rotten bottom plate? Support the rafters with 2x2s? There's not much weight on the roof.
#6
04-12-17, 03:19 AM
I wouldn't think it would require that much digging to return the grade to where it originally was. Sometimes thinking about the cost of getting a back hoe in there provides the motivation needed to hand dig.
Ideally you'd build a temporary wall to support the roof while you replace the bottom plate.Propping the rafter ups individually might work but wouldn't be as secure. Are the bottom of the studs ok or will they need to be have some cut out and scabbed on to?
Ideally you'd build a temporary wall to support the roof while you replace the bottom plate.Propping the rafter ups individually might work but wouldn't be as secure. Are the bottom of the studs ok or will they need to be have some cut out and scabbed on to?
#7
04-12-17, 09:01 AM
Looks like they might need some sister studs. The bottom of one is rotten, the other is starting to rot.
Do you just put a full length sister stud up and then cut out the rotten bit or do you remove the whole stud?
Do you just put a full length sister stud up and then cut out the rotten bit or do you remove the whole stud?
#9
04-12-17, 05:10 PM
If I'm cutting out a section and jacking up the roof/rafters, isn't it best just to remove the entire stud and replace it with a new one rather than insert a section and then sister a stud next to it?
