Bricking in basement windows

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Old 08-30-17, 08:57 PM
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Bricking in basement windows

I have a total of 4 basement windows and it's looking like I'm going to have to remove 2 of the windows that are under a deck so I can reroute my sump pump line around to the front of the house. I'm hoping to be able to leave the lintels in place, and brick in front of them. My question is about the pre existing concrete, that slopes so water doesn't go towards the window. Do I need to level this slope off before I lay the brick, or can I just use more mortar when laying the first row, to accommodate the slope? Right now I plan on using 4 x 8 x 16 solid construction blocks and type s mortar mix. We have tried calling masonry professional in the area and are not getting any where so any help is appreciated, thanks
 
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Old 08-30-17, 11:32 PM
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Why does re-routing the sump line have anything to do with closing the windows?
 
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Old 08-31-17, 12:24 AM
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The ground in my backyard is quite a bit lower than the front and I'm in Illinois so I need to bury the line so it doesn't freeze. The new pump line would go right through the middle of the windows so I wanted to remove them so I can put in the new line and build the ground up. This house has always had drainage issues so I'm trying to correct it.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 12:30 AM
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From the research I did, it seems like bricking in the openings would be the best way to go, versus just building a wooden wall in the window openings. Those pictures are inside, but it's sloped the same outside, they're under a deck so I didn't want to crawl back to get pictures
 
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Old 08-31-17, 09:42 AM
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So I'm still not getting this.

Most sump lines go up and out the rim joist, above the foundation, then down. Can you find a spot away from the deck and not have to brick the windows closed?

Seems like a lot of unnecessary work!
 
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Old 08-31-17, 01:10 PM
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Does anyone else have any suggestions on the issue I've stated
 
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Old 08-31-17, 01:42 PM
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This is where the line is routed now. We have a mentally ill neighbor who goes behind our fence and dams off the pipe in the winter and the pump runs almost constantly. the picture is the first window I need to brick in. The pipe needs to go around the side of the house right in front of the window, so I can get it sloped properly. I will then have to build up the ground to cover the pipe insulating it from our cold winters. I don't know how else to explain it. I just need to know what I should do with the first layer of bricks.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 02:16 PM
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Would any of that have to be done if the neighbor didn't sabotage the pipe? Why won't he sabotage the pipe after you move it?
 
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Old 08-31-17, 02:29 PM
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The lot it exits in is for sale so eventually it would still need to be moved. I have a 6ft privacy fence in the backyard so you can't see him doing anything, and we don't know about it until the pump is going off every few minutes. If it's in my front yard it can easily be watched. He's probably pissed because it creates some water on the side of his property how it is now, everything was done kind of stupidly and graded towards his property instead of towards the ditch. I've only been here a few years so why he didn't stop it all from being done to begin with is beyond me. I think he's just a old bully for lack of better words. I'm just trying to fix the issues so we don't have any more issues. We can't risk our basement flooding in the middle of winter because someone is being like that,
 
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Old 08-31-17, 02:36 PM
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So the guy isn't necessarily mentally ill, he is annoyed that the water is going in his yard. Why can't you shorten the pipe & maybe install a dry well? It would be far less work.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 02:41 PM
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I would say he is by how it's only an issue since we've been here, but that's not why I'm here. The backyard is maybe 20ft wide, and probably the low point in the neighborhood which is why it needs to be built up.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 02:46 PM
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Again, any help on the actual issue I've asked about would be helpful, this is the only option I have which is why I'm asking about it. I'm not a pencil pusher, and I don't need to be questioned just given advice on what I'm asking about. Im not lazy, I don't mind so called hard work
 
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Old 08-31-17, 03:00 PM
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this is the only option I have
Please forgive us for never assuming this is the case.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 04:41 PM
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Again, any help on the actual issue I've asked about would be helpful,
I'm not trying to be difficlut I'm just trying to understand the issue so we can help.
My question is about the pre existing concrete, that slopes so water doesn't go towards the window. Do I need to level this slope off before I lay the brick, or can I just use more mortar when laying the first row, to accommodate the slope?
Remove the lentils, get metal out of the way, if it rust it will expand and could crack.

Yes just use the mortar to level off the area for the brick.

Yes, block is better than wood, but I would use glass block since they provide a little insulation.

Personally I would not take the pipe out through the window, you will have one hell of a ditch getting that around the hose, somehow I would try to resolve keeping the pipe in the back, the dry well is a great option to keep it on your property.
 
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Old 08-31-17, 04:47 PM
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I'm hoping to be able to leave the lintels in place, and brick in front of them. My question is about the pre existing concrete, that slopes so water doesn't go towards the window. Do I need to level this slope off before I lay the brick
You can leave the lintel there if you want to, just to make things less complicated, but it may cause you problems with your mortar joints not lining up... you won't be able to get much mortar between your lintel and your top row of block unless you first remove the lintel. Your call.

Yes, you should chip any slope off the bottom first, and cup grind it smooth.
 
 

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