Settlement crack repair

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  #1  
Old 10-12-18, 08:30 PM
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Settlement crack repair

I have a settlement crack on the inside and outside of my exterior garage wall. It was identified about 6 years ago during home inspection and cement repair was done to the interior wall only and I forgot about it. A few days ago, I noticed the bottom of the wall was wet about 4-5" from the bottom suggesting water is coming up from the bottom or going down the exterior wall and entering at the footing. I am not sure if this is a settlement crack or from the water that's going downgrade along the side of the house that is slowly deteriorating the wall. The wall at the bottom has a bit of white powder I assume is from the cement that is being impacted. I took a few pics of the interior/exterior and outside grading. I spoke with a contractor who suggesting taking the gutter to a 3" PVC pipe downgrade about 12" underground all the way to the front of the garage/driveway to allow the water to exit about 1/2" from the surface. Then, digging down to the footing at the track and using a water prevention "calk" or similar and then using flash paper. Then, digging a 1/2" groove around the crack in the interior and filling it with a water-preventative caulk.

Is this overkill? My home inspector said that I will be fine with just digging down to the footing at the crack but did agree that any water being redirected is a good thing.
 
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  #2  
Old 10-13-18, 03:00 AM
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Foundation cracks are very common. I've always used the crack repair companies to come in and inject epoxy. Have only had one that didn't seal but they came back and resolved.

Putting a cement product on the surface doesn't do anything to fill the crack and it will eventually crack also.

Getting the water away from the foundation is always a first step, that small splash block isn't helping much. I always trench and install drain pipes for my gutters !
 
  #3  
Old 10-24-18, 07:06 PM
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I had a contractor repair it by digging to the foundation and using quickrite gray concrete crack seal, quickrite water-stop cement, and then rubberized asphalt crack filler. It was straight forward.
 
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