Shaving poured rough entry for door
#1
07-21-19, 06:37 AM
Shaving poured rough entry for door
I have a poured 8" thick concrete foundation in basement that I need to replace an entry door.
I would like to use a prehung door but the height of the entry is approx 81 3/4". The door I was looking at needs 81 3/4" so im guessing it will be tight. I dont want to special order a smaller door or get into cutting standard door down.
What would be the easiest method to shave down that small amount from the concrete?
I planned to install 2x buck on the sides for the door to attach to. Is there any issue not having 2x on top of the door? I never installed a prehung door before but I am assuming it doesnt get attached at the top anyway.
Thank you.
I would like to use a prehung door but the height of the entry is approx 81 3/4". The door I was looking at needs 81 3/4" so im guessing it will be tight. I dont want to special order a smaller door or get into cutting standard door down.
What would be the easiest method to shave down that small amount from the concrete?
I planned to install 2x buck on the sides for the door to attach to. Is there any issue not having 2x on top of the door? I never installed a prehung door before but I am assuming it doesnt get attached at the top anyway.
Thank you.
#2
07-21-19, 06:39 AM
Group Moderator
I don't think it hurts not having a 2x4 across the top except I don't like having the untreated frame of the door close to masonry without some barrier in between.
#3
07-21-19, 07:40 AM
Great point that I didnt consider. Perhaps flashing tape or something.
Is it feasible I could grind a 1/4" or 1/2" of concrete?
Does a prehung door typically get screwed to header?
Is it feasible I could grind a 1/4" or 1/2" of concrete?
Does a prehung door typically get screwed to header?
#4
07-21-19, 07:51 AM
I'd be careful about shaving down the concrete, you don't want to create a low spot for water to pool and then rot the door.
That being said, a simple circular saw with a masonry cutting blade will allow you to "score" lines in the concrete, then score lines 90' to that, then finish with a chisel.
(It's basically the same as scratching a diamond pattern into the ice on a car windshield so that it scrapes off easier.)
Make sure the stairwell down to the door has a drain, otherwise you'll get water building up.
That being said, a simple circular saw with a masonry cutting blade will allow you to "score" lines in the concrete, then score lines 90' to that, then finish with a chisel.
(It's basically the same as scratching a diamond pattern into the ice on a car windshield so that it scrapes off easier.)
Make sure the stairwell down to the door has a drain, otherwise you'll get water building up.
#5
07-21-19, 09:46 AM
Hal, Im going to shave from the top if its feasible.
So I am about a 1/2" away from standard 160 dollar door from the hardware store vs. custom order 78" door at about 400+ dollars.
So I am about a 1/2" away from standard 160 dollar door from the hardware store vs. custom order 78" door at about 400+ dollars.
#6
07-21-19, 01:00 PM
Group Moderator
With a diamond blade in a circular saw and a cartridge respirator to survive the dust you can make the cut.
#7
07-21-19, 01:15 PM
Member
So the obvious question, what's at the top of the door frame, wood?
Much easier to trim than the concrete!!
Much easier to trim than the concrete!!
#8
07-26-19, 12:49 PM
what should I use as a barrier between concrete and the prehung door jamb? Like a flashing tape? What I saw online for "flashing tape" was kind of expensive for a whole roll... I would only need enough to cover the top portion of the jamb.
#9
07-26-19, 02:17 PM
Group Moderator
Flashing tape would be the best as that's what it's designed to do. There are also butyl tapes that might be good, perhaps one with an aluminum facing though I don't know how the price compares to flashing tape. My third pick would be a couple layers of tar paper, sheet vinyl or some other material very resistant to letting moisture pass through.
#11
07-27-19, 03:53 AM
Group Moderator
Read the instructions for the product you choose. Normally it's applied to the rough opening but I think that's primarily for the ease of construction so you can apply the tape then just set the door in place on it. If you put the tape on the bottom of the door then you need to be careful to not drag the door across the floor or set it on anything that might damage the tape.
