Front stoop construction questions
#1
07-29-19, 01:09 PM
Front stoop construction questions
Hi
I plan to replace my existing wood front steps with a cement, block and flagstone tread stoop with iron rails and stone sidewall veneer. I would like to go over my plans, provide some pictures and ask a few questions if possible. I leave in CT, so I plan to dig two perimeter trenches (below the frost line) and perpendicular out from the existing foundation and one tying the two together (which would basically be where the first step will be). The trench will be about 12-14" wide (ie: rake width), with rebar added and will be poured with cement up to appx ground level. I plan to use the ground itself as the form as long as I can dig some clean trenches with good sidewalls. From that point I plan to use cinder blocks to build the sidewalls and steps and the platform height itself will end a few inches beneath the door. I'll be using 2" blue stone treads for the steps and 1.5" treads for the platform area. If all goes well, I’ll be using a professional to add the iron rails since I don't want to take any chances drilling the blue stone with my own tools. For waterproofing against the house, I plan to use a self-stick water membrane from beneath the door sill, over the old PT ledger board, over the house sheathing and lapped onto the existing foundation. For additional protection, I plan to cover the membrane with copper flashing or similar material that will not interact with the membrane components. I’ll make sure to use the shingle method (overlapping) to avoid water penetration.
Here are my questions:
1. The poured cement foundation will be around the perimeter of the stoop. The side walls and first step will land of these foundations. However, on the interior of the stoop I was planning to use crushed stone (ie: 6”) that is tamped down, then lay my cinder blocks on that base to form the steps needed. Is this the normal practice? Pouring a cement foundation for every horizontal step row seems like it would be overkill. I am assuming that the poured cement foundation on the perimeter will stop any frost heave for the entire stoop. I don't have to worry about the interior section alone heaving do I?
2. I plan to fill the interior section (under the platform area) with stone and rocks then put a cap layer (appx 6”) of cement on top to equal the wall block height. The blue stone tops will be added as a separate step later. Does this plan sound correct?
3. Does my waterproofing membrane with metal flashing covering it sound like the right idea? I do not want any chance of water penetration.
4. Is it Ok for the stone and rock fill to lean up against the house flashing on the interior section of the stoop? The reason I ask this question is because I saw one posting on the Internet stating to leave an air gap between the stoop and existing foundation. This would be difficult since I would have to build some type of barrier. This is not normally what I see when I look at other people’s stoops. I normally don’t see an air gap where the stoop meets the house foundation. Any thoughts?
5. Should I plan to have rebar extend up from the poured cement walls so it can enter the voids where the cinder blocks will be added on the first row?
6. Should I fill all the cinder block holes with cement?
7. Are clips or mesh needed on the block sidewalls to receive the future veneer stones?
I plan to replace my existing wood front steps with a cement, block and flagstone tread stoop with iron rails and stone sidewall veneer. I would like to go over my plans, provide some pictures and ask a few questions if possible. I leave in CT, so I plan to dig two perimeter trenches (below the frost line) and perpendicular out from the existing foundation and one tying the two together (which would basically be where the first step will be). The trench will be about 12-14" wide (ie: rake width), with rebar added and will be poured with cement up to appx ground level. I plan to use the ground itself as the form as long as I can dig some clean trenches with good sidewalls. From that point I plan to use cinder blocks to build the sidewalls and steps and the platform height itself will end a few inches beneath the door. I'll be using 2" blue stone treads for the steps and 1.5" treads for the platform area. If all goes well, I’ll be using a professional to add the iron rails since I don't want to take any chances drilling the blue stone with my own tools. For waterproofing against the house, I plan to use a self-stick water membrane from beneath the door sill, over the old PT ledger board, over the house sheathing and lapped onto the existing foundation. For additional protection, I plan to cover the membrane with copper flashing or similar material that will not interact with the membrane components. I’ll make sure to use the shingle method (overlapping) to avoid water penetration.
Here are my questions:
1. The poured cement foundation will be around the perimeter of the stoop. The side walls and first step will land of these foundations. However, on the interior of the stoop I was planning to use crushed stone (ie: 6”) that is tamped down, then lay my cinder blocks on that base to form the steps needed. Is this the normal practice? Pouring a cement foundation for every horizontal step row seems like it would be overkill. I am assuming that the poured cement foundation on the perimeter will stop any frost heave for the entire stoop. I don't have to worry about the interior section alone heaving do I?
2. I plan to fill the interior section (under the platform area) with stone and rocks then put a cap layer (appx 6”) of cement on top to equal the wall block height. The blue stone tops will be added as a separate step later. Does this plan sound correct?
3. Does my waterproofing membrane with metal flashing covering it sound like the right idea? I do not want any chance of water penetration.
4. Is it Ok for the stone and rock fill to lean up against the house flashing on the interior section of the stoop? The reason I ask this question is because I saw one posting on the Internet stating to leave an air gap between the stoop and existing foundation. This would be difficult since I would have to build some type of barrier. This is not normally what I see when I look at other people’s stoops. I normally don’t see an air gap where the stoop meets the house foundation. Any thoughts?
5. Should I plan to have rebar extend up from the poured cement walls so it can enter the voids where the cinder blocks will be added on the first row?
6. Should I fill all the cinder block holes with cement?
7. Are clips or mesh needed on the block sidewalls to receive the future veneer stones?
Last edited by PJmax; 07-29-19 at 01:22 PM. Reason: resized picture
#2
08-14-19, 12:19 PM
Slight change of plans
I believe my idea for a poured foundation perimeter might be a little overkill so I am thinking about using sonotube piers connected to a slab on top to receive the block walls. Please let me know what you think, New pics attached. I am also looking for comments regarding filling the void under the platform area. My thoughts are to fill with rock and stone and then put a cement cap on top to receive the platform blue stones on top of the platform. Thanks
#3
08-17-19, 09:04 AM
Additional questions
These are my main questions andor concerns:
1. My thought is to use 10" Sonotubes, 3 on each side wall and two in the middle of the step area. (See pics). I know this may be overkill, but I have a tendency to overbuild to be safe. It just gives my peace of mind even though it involves more work. I plan to form a 6" (?) slab on top of the Sonotubes as a base for the cinder blocks. I also plan to pour the same 6" slab under the step area to receive the step blocks involved. Do you think this idea is OK and if so, do you think 6" (with rebar) is appropriate for the weight of the blocks involved?
2. Under the upper platform area I plan to fill the void between the side walls with rock and/or gravel. On top of that (level with the top of the wall),I was thinking of pouring a few inches (4 - 6"?) of concrete to form a cement cap which is what the upper blue stones will rest on. I'll add rebar within this area and tie it into both side walls. Does this idea sound OK to you? Do I have to worry about this cement cap sinking down even if I plan to pack all the rock and gravel tight and tamped down? As mentioned, I will tie it into both walls with rebar as well. Is there a better way you might suggest or is this OK? If the plan is OK, how much cement would you suggest for this top area?
3. As previously mentioned, I plan to use a water membrane over the old ledger and house sheeting as well as a metal flashing on top. I will use a shingle method of overlapping. Will it be OK for the stone fill to lean up against this flashing? I cant think of any way to keep it away from the flashing unless I had some type of other barrier. Would it be helpful to use two layers of water membrane then the metal flashing on top?
Thanks in advance for you help.
1. My thought is to use 10" Sonotubes, 3 on each side wall and two in the middle of the step area. (See pics). I know this may be overkill, but I have a tendency to overbuild to be safe. It just gives my peace of mind even though it involves more work. I plan to form a 6" (?) slab on top of the Sonotubes as a base for the cinder blocks. I also plan to pour the same 6" slab under the step area to receive the step blocks involved. Do you think this idea is OK and if so, do you think 6" (with rebar) is appropriate for the weight of the blocks involved?
2. Under the upper platform area I plan to fill the void between the side walls with rock and/or gravel. On top of that (level with the top of the wall),I was thinking of pouring a few inches (4 - 6"?) of concrete to form a cement cap which is what the upper blue stones will rest on. I'll add rebar within this area and tie it into both side walls. Does this idea sound OK to you? Do I have to worry about this cement cap sinking down even if I plan to pack all the rock and gravel tight and tamped down? As mentioned, I will tie it into both walls with rebar as well. Is there a better way you might suggest or is this OK? If the plan is OK, how much cement would you suggest for this top area?
3. As previously mentioned, I plan to use a water membrane over the old ledger and house sheeting as well as a metal flashing on top. I will use a shingle method of overlapping. Will it be OK for the stone fill to lean up against this flashing? I cant think of any way to keep it away from the flashing unless I had some type of other barrier. Would it be helpful to use two layers of water membrane then the metal flashing on top?
Thanks in advance for you help.
