Patching exterior wall
#1
01-06-20, 01:38 PM
Patching exterior wall
Hi Guys,
Need some advise on patching exterior wall after removal of Pallet Stove vent.
Internal drywall has been patched, but exterior wall the contractor did not path
I want to know
1.) is this stucco or cemnet?
and
2.) how do I patch it, the diameter of the vent (that we are removing is 8 inch)
3.) Do I need to water proof it? can I just fill in the expansion material ,
4.) Is DIY possible for this job ?
FYI, I already tried the "stickable tile over it" but it did not stick.
Need some advise on patching exterior wall after removal of Pallet Stove vent.
Internal drywall has been patched, but exterior wall the contractor did not path
I want to know
1.) is this stucco or cemnet?
and
2.) how do I patch it, the diameter of the vent (that we are removing is 8 inch)
3.) Do I need to water proof it? can I just fill in the expansion material ,
4.) Is DIY possible for this job ?
FYI, I already tried the "stickable tile over it" but it did not stick.
#2
01-06-20, 01:48 PM
#1 - looks like stucco which is almost the same as mortar mix
#2 - it depends, is the wall block or wood framed? with wood framing you'd need to tack up wire lath over the opening and apply 2 coats of stucco. there should be tar paper behind the lath. That method can also be used with a block wall although block does allow for other options
#3 - if it's painted the paint along with the tar paper should provide adequate water proofing
#4 - yes all though it's a little dependent on your skill set - mostly on your determination.
#2 - it depends, is the wall block or wood framed? with wood framing you'd need to tack up wire lath over the opening and apply 2 coats of stucco. there should be tar paper behind the lath. That method can also be used with a block wall although block does allow for other options
#3 - if it's painted the paint along with the tar paper should provide adequate water proofing
#4 - yes all though it's a little dependent on your skill set - mostly on your determination.
#3
01-06-20, 01:49 PM
Group Moderator
Cant really tell by looking. Once you remove the pipe you will be able to see if its traditional 3 coat stucco or if there is styrofoam behind it it would be eifs. But it could just be a thin parge coat of cement since you can pretty clearly see the outline of all the studs on the stucco. Won't really know until you remove the pipe.
Either way I imagine you will want to smash off a rough edge around the hole to expose some of the original paper... slip a backer board into the wall through the hole and fasten it to the sheathing (assuming there is sheathing) and then paper it before adding a little wire and stucco.
Either way I imagine you will want to smash off a rough edge around the hole to expose some of the original paper... slip a backer board into the wall through the hole and fasten it to the sheathing (assuming there is sheathing) and then paper it before adding a little wire and stucco.
#4
01-07-20, 09:16 AM
hi Thank you for your reply.
I went to a BigBox store , to get material, the wire lath, paper etc.
the tech/helper in building material said that the since is it about only 8" hole, I should just fill it with
"QUIKRETE hydraulic water-stop Cement"
do you see any downside of doing this?
also on the -QUIKRETE hydraulic water-stop Cement- container it says, typical 550 PSI ( 38 MPa) at 28 days.. --- not sure what that means
I went to a BigBox store , to get material, the wire lath, paper etc.
the tech/helper in building material said that the since is it about only 8" hole, I should just fill it with
"QUIKRETE hydraulic water-stop Cement"
do you see any downside of doing this?
also on the -QUIKRETE hydraulic water-stop Cement- container it says, typical 550 PSI ( 38 MPa) at 28 days.. --- not sure what that means
#5
01-07-20, 09:23 AM
The downside to just filling it is masonry will hold water and that can transfer the moisture to your framing .... or is this a cinder block wall?
That means it reaches that strength/hardness after 28 days of curing.
typical 550 PSI ( 38 MPa) at 28 days.. --- not sure what that means
#6
01-07-20, 11:10 AM
Unless this is a masonry wall you still need something to back whatever you put in the hole.
It sure would be nice to know if this is frame construction
If it is frame construction is it open framing or is there sheathing?
If this is rather new construction there could be foam insulation behind the stucco and the stucco is probably thin coat.
Any of this can be done rather simply you just have to do at it right.
If open framing then break off enough stucco to insert some metal lath and tie it to the existing lath which is probably woven wire. Insert some building paper behind the existing paper at the top and over the exisiting paper at the bottom and either in front of or behind the existing on the sides Even in a little hole like this I find it easier to use more than one piece of paper make sure all the laps of existing and new will shed water.
If there is foam behind the stucco carefully break some stucco so you can tie new lath to existing push some long nails part way into the foam so you can tie lath to the nails, Lap paper as described above.
If there is plywood sheathing then break some stucco in order to tie new and old lath together and lap paper as described above. This is probably the easiest condition to fix. The plywood makes it easier to break some stucco and you can nail the new lath to the plywood. Actually screws are easier.
If you have masonry stuff some paper into the webs of the block so you don't have to pour and endless amount of mortar into the hole then fill it with some mortar mix. You could use the quicksetting hydraulic cement or a quicksetting stucco or mortar mix. You are looking at a gallon or so of mortar so don't buy sand and cement. Buy some premixed material and mix it with water according to the directions on the bag, adjusting for only a part of the bag.
Oh, and one more thing paint the edges of the stucco after you make the cuts with some bonding agent.
There, have I covered all the bases and given away my secrets?
It sure would be nice to know if this is frame construction
If it is frame construction is it open framing or is there sheathing?
If this is rather new construction there could be foam insulation behind the stucco and the stucco is probably thin coat.
Any of this can be done rather simply you just have to do at it right.
If open framing then break off enough stucco to insert some metal lath and tie it to the existing lath which is probably woven wire. Insert some building paper behind the existing paper at the top and over the exisiting paper at the bottom and either in front of or behind the existing on the sides Even in a little hole like this I find it easier to use more than one piece of paper make sure all the laps of existing and new will shed water.
If there is foam behind the stucco carefully break some stucco so you can tie new lath to existing push some long nails part way into the foam so you can tie lath to the nails, Lap paper as described above.
If there is plywood sheathing then break some stucco in order to tie new and old lath together and lap paper as described above. This is probably the easiest condition to fix. The plywood makes it easier to break some stucco and you can nail the new lath to the plywood. Actually screws are easier.
If you have masonry stuff some paper into the webs of the block so you don't have to pour and endless amount of mortar into the hole then fill it with some mortar mix. You could use the quicksetting hydraulic cement or a quicksetting stucco or mortar mix. You are looking at a gallon or so of mortar so don't buy sand and cement. Buy some premixed material and mix it with water according to the directions on the bag, adjusting for only a part of the bag.
Oh, and one more thing paint the edges of the stucco after you make the cuts with some bonding agent.
There, have I covered all the bases and given away my secrets?
