How to turn 45 degrees in block wall

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Old 05-26-20, 05:34 AM
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How to turn 45 degrees in block wall

Hello.

I am trying to figure out how to turn a block wall 45 degrees after tearing down the failing block wall that was put up without a footer.

The basement door of my house opens to a small concrete pad then turns 45 degrees to the left for the stairs. The block wall on both sided start out perpendicular to the house then also turn 45 degrees. When I look at how to turn 45 degrees in pictures and YouTube it seems like there is a non overlapping joint at the turn where the wall could be prone to weakness. Another option seemed to have the courses overlap but then every other row has a protrusion. this seems the strongest but just is less aesthetically pleasing.

I am attaching two images. First one just shows the angle and two blocks. I know I will need to cut to join these two block together. the second is what it would look like just overlapping the blocks. Again I think cutting would be needed to make the proper joints.

Is there a method of turning a block wall 45 degrees and either overlap the blocks or create a strong connection in the wall where it turns. Any info is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Dan.
 
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Old 05-26-20, 05:45 AM
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Sure, you get the correct blocks for a 45 degree corner.

https://ncma.org/wp-content/uploads/...igure-1-13.png

Cutting the blocks does not result in rows that completely overlap 1/4 the width of the block.

https://www.angelusblock.com/assets/...plan8miter.png (see bottom left illustration)

The corner is built first, other blocks are cut as needed to meet it.
 
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Old 05-27-20, 06:03 AM
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Thanks for the reply. I did find a yard that has the 45 degree but I went out to measure my angle.
while it looked like a 45 degree it is actually 36 degrees.

I guess I will need to cut the blocks.
Would a bond beam every couple of layers help?
The wall will be 7 layers tall.

 
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Old 05-27-20, 06:10 AM
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If you have to cut the blocks for an odd angle, leave one square and only cut the block that meets it. Then alternate rows. That way you have at least partial overlap. Yes a bond beam row or two (with rebar laid in it) would be good, then a solid cap.

Slug the core on your mitered corner as you go, with vertical rebar.
 
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Old 05-27-20, 10:07 AM
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I understand. thanks so much for putting me on the right track.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:12 PM
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I cut my first block and how quickly I forget that I need to cut two 18 degree cuts to make a 36. It seems this will not allow any overlap at all. I am guessing the verts with bond beam will make a strong connection.


 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:15 PM
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You need to pull the full block down about 4" and slide the one that is cut back about 4". And cut it differently so that the inside corner meets. The outside corner of your full block is the point of the miter. And you cut off too much of the back side of the cut block. And that back cut will be perpendicular to the way you cut it.

Need a picture?
 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:39 PM
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Is this what you are referring to. This is a screen shot from a youtube video where they were turning a corner.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 04:44 PM
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It depends. If you are starting at the corner, you could do it like this... but you would need to insert a cut block to get back on your 1/2 stagger layout. Actually I drew it wrong, since the cut block should be a half block, not a full block.

That video image is better as far as the rest of the layout is concerned.

I see the outside corner in their video is already cracked.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 06:01 PM
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Yes I noticed that crack.
If I understand, the cut block in your drawing would be similar to the cut block on the picture from youtube meaning that it is less than 1/2 a block. .

Later on in the that same video I can see he is not overlapping and that joint will seem prone to being weak. . Maybe that is the reason for the crack?

if I overlap, will cuts be exactly the same(just a mirror image, or will they be different to line up the corner in the same place?
 
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Old 05-28-20, 07:18 PM
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You can see the way he is doing it, the right side of your last screenshot has blocks that are staggered full half full half. All the cores line up that way. I'm sure that they are putting vertical rebar in and slugging those cores full once they are finished.

The way I drew it originally, you get overlap but the cores at the corner may not be lined up as nice, making them harder to fill, but if you do it that way I would just fill as you go. (Yes the cut half blocks "should" just be a mirror image of each other). Just make sure your cut block is going to be landing halfway over the full block on your previous row. I can make a better drawing.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 07:21 PM
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I drew up a plan and I think overlapping with mirror cuts will work well.

one image is the exact mirror of the the row below. the solid fill is on the bottom. the pattern fill is on the top.
the second image is the top image overlaying the bottom image.
The vertical lines line up the inside and outside corner to show they are on the same vertical plane.
 
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Old 05-28-20, 07:28 PM
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Ok here is a better drawing. The cut block should be a mirror image each time. This assumes you start laying up the corner first so that your full block can start right at the corner.


Yes, I think you've got it.
 
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Old 05-29-20, 04:13 AM
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Thanks for all your time and effort. I cant tell you how happy I am to get this right. All the looking on the web and I could just not find the solution to this exact problem. I at least have the correct info in my head. I know however all the years of being a backyard handyman that knowledge is only half the battle. the next challenge will be the execution. But I have a great start thanks to your input. Much appreciated.
 
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