Repairing Hole In Top Slab Of Concrete Porch
#1
06-27-20, 12:12 PM
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Repairing Hole In Top Slab Of Concrete Porch
Hello,
A quick background on myself and the project:
As a side note, someone quoted me $1350 to do the repair with rebar but offered no warranty. The property is located in Michigan. Would that be a good deal?
A quick background on myself and the project:
- I have no "handyman" experience and this is my first project
- I only have two days to complete the project before I have to leave town
- The hole as you can see is all the way through the slab and I can't find repair videos with this kind of issue
- I should be able to get whatever equipment is needed to complete the job correctly
As a side note, someone quoted me $1350 to do the repair with rebar but offered no warranty. The property is located in Michigan. Would that be a good deal?
#2
06-27-20, 12:55 PM
Group Moderator
Sounds a little pricey for what should be a 1 hour job. But no, I wouldnt warranty any kind of repair either! It's never going to be as good as new. But it's certainly easy to do.
You would want to fill the void in back with sand or expanding foam so that the concrete is supported in back.
Rent a hammer drill and get a 3/16" bit. Get some remesh wire, like what is used in concrete block laying. Cut it into a few short pieces, maybe 4" long. Drill about 4 holes into the center of the pad, spaced maybe 6" apart which you will hammer those wires into. Bend a little hook on each tip. Then bend an oval of wire to lay on those hooks, tie the oval onto the short wires with some tie wire. You might even be able to fit a single wire all the way across the front by drilling holes that would align (into the left and right sides) all wires need to be embedded in the concrete at least an inch or more.
Cut a 2x4 that will fit underneath the patch. Shim it up with something so that it is tight to the bottom of the pad. Then take a short piece of 2x6 or 2x8 and fasten it to that 2x4 to block off the front as a form. Ideally you would rip a board the right width so it could sit on the step and be even with the top of the pad. You would need to measure what that height is. That board needs to stay tight to the existing pad and even with the top, so you could brace it or stake the ends to the ground, or just drill some holes and use tapcon screws to fasten it to the front of the pad on either side.
Then mix up some bagged concrete mix. Take a little bit of powder and thin it with some water in a separate pan to make a thin pudding like mix that you can brush onto the edges of the block with a paint brush. This will help it bond. Then pour your concrete into the form and let it set up until it is firm enough to trowel smooth. Usually you want to use an edge on the front corner to strengthen it and give it a gentle curve.
Leave all your forms in place until it has had at least 7 days to cure. It will be fully cure after about 1 month.
You would want to fill the void in back with sand or expanding foam so that the concrete is supported in back.
Rent a hammer drill and get a 3/16" bit. Get some remesh wire, like what is used in concrete block laying. Cut it into a few short pieces, maybe 4" long. Drill about 4 holes into the center of the pad, spaced maybe 6" apart which you will hammer those wires into. Bend a little hook on each tip. Then bend an oval of wire to lay on those hooks, tie the oval onto the short wires with some tie wire. You might even be able to fit a single wire all the way across the front by drilling holes that would align (into the left and right sides) all wires need to be embedded in the concrete at least an inch or more.
Cut a 2x4 that will fit underneath the patch. Shim it up with something so that it is tight to the bottom of the pad. Then take a short piece of 2x6 or 2x8 and fasten it to that 2x4 to block off the front as a form. Ideally you would rip a board the right width so it could sit on the step and be even with the top of the pad. You would need to measure what that height is. That board needs to stay tight to the existing pad and even with the top, so you could brace it or stake the ends to the ground, or just drill some holes and use tapcon screws to fasten it to the front of the pad on either side.
Then mix up some bagged concrete mix. Take a little bit of powder and thin it with some water in a separate pan to make a thin pudding like mix that you can brush onto the edges of the block with a paint brush. This will help it bond. Then pour your concrete into the form and let it set up until it is firm enough to trowel smooth. Usually you want to use an edge on the front corner to strengthen it and give it a gentle curve.
Leave all your forms in place until it has had at least 7 days to cure. It will be fully cure after about 1 month.
#3
06-27-20, 02:51 PM
Join Date: Jun 2020
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Thank you so much for the feedback. Sounds like something I can do.
By “pad” you mean the expanded foam or sand correct?
Is there picture or video I can reference to make sure I understand your statement below?
“Bend a little hook on each tip. Then bend an oval of wire to lay on those hooks, tie the oval onto the short wires with some tie wire.”
By “pad” you mean the expanded foam or sand correct?
Is there picture or video I can reference to make sure I understand your statement below?
“Bend a little hook on each tip. Then bend an oval of wire to lay on those hooks, tie the oval onto the short wires with some tie wire.”
#4
06-27-20, 10:41 PM
Member
property is located in Michigan
Concrete is not repair friendly!
#5
06-28-20, 05:31 AM
Group Moderator
The pad is the 3 1/2" thick concrete slab that you are repairing. You need to fill the void up under that big hole so that your concrete doesnt all slide back into that hole.
By hook, I mean bend a 90 degree or 180 degree u-turn on the end of your wire so that the cross wire you place on top will sit against it, where you can then tie them together with thin wire.
By hook, I mean bend a 90 degree or 180 degree u-turn on the end of your wire so that the cross wire you place on top will sit against it, where you can then tie them together with thin wire.
