Anchor Pressure Treated 2x4 Sill to Concrete
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Anchor Pressure Treated 2x4 Sill to Concrete
There is rot in my garage sill plate directly under the king and jack studs that frame the human door to my garage. At first, I thought I'd just dig out as much of the rot as I could and then jamb Bondo in there, but, as the amount of material I was removing increased, that seemed like a bad idea.
My current plan is to cut out a section of the sill plate (maybe 30") and replace with pressure treated lumber.
I liked the idea of using Red Head with sleeve anchor, but a version that is PT appropriate is not immediately available. Would the Tapcon 3/8" x 3" Concrete Anchors be sufficient for this application?
Thanks in advance.
My current plan is to cut out a section of the sill plate (maybe 30") and replace with pressure treated lumber.
I liked the idea of using Red Head with sleeve anchor, but a version that is PT appropriate is not immediately available. Would the Tapcon 3/8" x 3" Concrete Anchors be sufficient for this application?
Thanks in advance.
#2
Member
Thread Starter
According to the Tapcon site, it looks like I'd need to use, at least, a 4" anchor, since a 3/8" diameter anchor must be embedded a minimum of 2.5". So, is a 3/8" x 4" Tapcon Concrete Anchor a good choose for fastening the section of the sill plate that I'm replacing?
SturdyNail
voted this post useful.
#4
Member
Thread Starter
Thanks XSleeper .
There is another wrinkle that I just exposed. The blocks under the section that I will be replacing are hollow. I'm now thinking that I'll need to fill a few cores with concrete before I can anchor into it. The only preexisting anchor that I've found is directly under the jack and king studs and I would rather not get into replacing them..
There is another wrinkle that I just exposed. The blocks under the section that I will be replacing are hollow. I'm now thinking that I'll need to fill a few cores with concrete before I can anchor into it. The only preexisting anchor that I've found is directly under the jack and king studs and I would rather not get into replacing them..
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Do you think it would be OK to set the Tapcons into the wet concrete--allowing the concrete to cure around them? It would allow me to proceed and to skip the need to drill into cured concrete. One negative might be that I wouldn't be able to periodically wet the curing concrete, since it would be covered. Maybe it would be sufficient to wet the blocks that would contain the new concrete. It would save a lot of time.
#6
If you want to do that, use j-bolts Instead. Put the washer and nut on after its had some time to cure... about 7-10 days.
SturdyNail
voted this post useful.
#7
Member
Thread Starter
SturdyNail
voted this post useful.
#9
Member
Thread Starter
Quick update; remember how I said I didn't want to get into replacing the jack and king studs? Well, after removing a section of the old sill, I discovered a significant void at the bottom of the jack stud. Some of the void may be from rot, but the original builder managed to locate the jack stud directly over the bolted-on anchor, so I'm guessing they had to hack into the stud. At a minimum, the jack stud needs to be replaced, but I think I'm going to use the opportunity to shift the location of the door a couple of inches. The door has always seemed too tight against the sidewall of the house. I'm guessing that the original builders made a mistake in locating the sill's anchor and just worked around it.