Hello DIY members -
I want to patch the crack near bottom of step in the attached photo. A few questions:
I went to the Home Depot concrete isle and there are calk-gun tubes of some products that would work but I think it would not match the existing older concrete, and there are lots of bags of various brand / types of mortar or concrete that I could get and mix.
1) Can anyone suggest which would be better to match what is there?
2) It seems like crack should be filled first with something so the patching material has backing - what would this usually be filled with?
thanks a lot
The backer rod is to take up space and prevent the cement or whatever you use from falling out and draining away. Especially if the crack or separation is deep. Can't tell since our great forum can't seem to render the picture clear tonight.
Use a backer rod to file the gap, then cement over it. You will never match the color. But it will look good. All concrete needs weather over time and eventually blend in.
That is not a place to use concrete. And as Norm said, nothing will ever match it. If it broke, it's going to keep moving... so you need to treat it like an expansion joint. Clean the joint, grind it as needed (cup wheel on grinder) to smooth up the edges and make the joint straight... fill with backer rod, pushed about 3/8" deep, then caulk with a concrete sealant (like NP1, Sikaflex, Loctite S10) and tool as needed. If it's level you could use a self levelling product (similar to the products above) but you will need end dams to keep it from running out the ends.
If there is a large void below, you might want to fill the joint with silica sand prior to installing your backer rod. You can just pour in small amounts, tamp it as needed, and it will usually spread out enough to fill the void and give the sidewalk and backer rod better support.
Great! thanks a lot - yep the foam backer rod will fill the gap, so I'll clean, grind, backer-rod and HD has the Silka-Pro and Locktite-PL so I think I'll get the Locktite. It will eventually blend in.
My guess is the reason there is a crack is because they are on two different foundations. The sidewalk sank! If it were me, i wouldn't spend some much time and money on backer rods caulking etc. I would just use my trusty Rapidset Mortar Mix and fill the crack! And then paint the stoop and sidewalk with portland cement so they look the same. Easy peasy!
I'll read up some on Mortar mix and painting with Portland cement, a few questions:
So with Rapidset Mortar Mix a backer rod is not needed?
and
*If the sidewalk hasn't finished sinking, would Mortar mix still be the best option?
I have a set of running steps that have the exact cracks. Mortar is not a good option, the slightest movement and that material will crack and break out.
A few years ago I used a urethane sealant, similar to the self leveling material but thick like caulk and it held up for 2-3 years. Last fall I dug it out and tried a Quickcrete product, it's only been a few months and probable will get the same 2-3 years out of it. The big positive was that it matched the concrete better than the first sealant which is that bright gray color.
I'd like to match the existing concrete as close as possible, it seems though that the stores around here don't have much Quickrete on the shelves, although it's possible to get it delivered. I'll check into that or possibly another brand that's similar in the matching - thanks
"So with Rapidset Mortar Mix a backer rod is not needed?
and
*If the sidewalk hasn't finished sinking, would Mortar mix still be the best option?"
Rapidset Mortar Mix is just like cement but dries faster. It is also water resist since it is hydraulic cement. So no, you don't need a backer rod. Get as much Rapidset in the crack and as deep as possible. Wet the crack. Without wetting it, rapidset will not stick. That's important. Get a sponge and blend in rapidset to the existing concrete. Then do the mud trick. LOL. Get some dirt, add water, and stir. Rapidset sets fast, so before it fully sets, use a paint brush and paint the patch with mud. That will make the patch old looking. What Marq1 recommended is also good but imo using Rapidset is the right solution because you seem to have a water problem as well. You could also use Rapidset for other projects.
If the sidewalk hasn't finished sinking, then nothing will preventing it from cracking again. Maybe rapidset can hold it better. Anyway, a patch is a patch.
The backer rod is to take up space and prevent the cement or whatever you use from falling out and draining away. Especially if the crack or separation is deep. Can't tell since our great forum can't seem to render the picture clear tonight.
That is like the planes in a shower, you don't grout the corners because any movement will crack. That is why you install something with a bit of flexibility, like caulk, to provide a little give and absorb the movement.
That is like the planes in a shower, you don't grout the corners because any movement will crack. That is why you install something with a bit of flexibility, like caulk, to provide a little give and absorb the movement.
In my front yard, i have a concrete planters bed. Next to the wall of the planters bed, there's set of concrete steps. Between the wall of the planters bed and concrete steps, there's a appr 1/4 inch opening where water can get it. You want me to use a backer rod and caulking? No. I just patch the hole up with Rapidset Mortar Mix. I did that last September. No cracks yet!
From what I can see in the picture, that crack is a lot more than 1/4". After cleanup and grinding (optional) you're looking at a wide and deep craves. I'd say at least 2 to 3 inches deep. That's a lot of cement to use as fill. One might even want to add silicate sand as X suggested. Again, backer rod is not mandatory, but it will help. Besides its cheap.
*If the sidewalk hasn't finished sinking, would Mortar mix still be the best option?
If it settles just a fraction then the mortar will break up, as noted a couple times that is why something flexible is needed to allow minor shift without cracking.
Just to follow up on my front step questions;I originally intended to DIY patch the crack in the photo.
Then the place that I hired to replace a wrought iron landing at another door offered to patch the crack as part of the deal, no extra charge so I got them to do it.
I would have had to purchase or rent a grinder anyway. I think the product utilized is ‘Rockite’. I’m happy with the results.
I think the next step in the process (pun intended) is to get some concrete cleaner and wash the area,
thanks for all the input
So my front porch was obviously built to drain to the steps, 3 out of 4 corners gently slope towards there. The problem is due to foundation settling or something similar the forth corner does not drain and instead gets a small pool of water every time it rains or we wash. How should I go about fixing this so water drains to the stairs
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Hello community! I just finished pressure washing and stripping the paint off this front porch slab; the house flippers put cheap paint on it last year and it was peeling. The slab itself is in good shape, and it grades down away from the house. From this point I think I have two directions to go in.
1. I could stain it. The only concern I have is there are existing stains on the slab, and it is a little discolored in some areas. I just wonder how this would affect the stain with those things known? I believe I would use a water based stain and seal it afterward. Perhaps a darker color such as gray will help hide those imperfections? I have never used concrete stain before so I am not sure how it reacts with existing stains. Do you recommend any certain brands?
2. I could tile it. I think this would be pretty straightforward as long as I use a good outdoor floor rated tile, and have it waterfall over the edges.
Side note: do you see that raised area by the door? It is about 1/8 inch raised compared to the rest of the slab. It was probably the original foundation. It is not in good shape. Could I add some concrete to this to raise it just a little and for the main purpose of smoothing it out? I was reading that a polymer based concrete could work for this purpose as regular concrete won't do well being laid out that thin on top of existing concrete.
In short.....is the slab in good shape for staining or should I abandon that and tile it? Also, what to do about that raised area by the door? Thanks for any help!
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[i]This is the raised area I was talking about. [/i]