That could be a leak from the pipe or ground water through the opening. Is the pipe connected to the main? Does the water stop when the main valve is closed? It could be a branch line to an outside spigot or another building. Are you getting normal or reduced flow there?
The good(?) news is that the leak is flowing into your french drain/sump and not flooding the floor. The bad news is that if it is a leak from the pipe you are paying for it in your water bills or well pump electricity.
That type of perforated french drain is meant to capture water that will leak through the wall. The wall cannot be made waterproof from the inside.
1.) Today I checked the leak is coming from outside spout, the sumppump and roof drain is just out side that wall and I keep gluing the pvc pipes ( sumppump discharge) and it keeps getting loose and falls off , on the ground. that I will glue again.
but more concerning is
1.) why is it coming inside the home and
2.) why there are those black marks above on the wall? how do I stop it
That appears to be a leak in the pipe that goes to the outside spigot. The pipe needs to be replaced and if you are in an area subject to freezing temperatures there should be a shut off valve with drain inside the house to prevent such damage.
The water is leaking into the house through the wall opening where the pipe passes because it follows the path of least resistance. Water from the sump and roof drains will also flow back in if not diverted away from the house.
Black marks (stripes) could be mold due the the constant wetness in that area. It can be cleaned up with chlorine bleach. Stopping the water and providing some ventilation will minimize future growth.
Thanks for your reply.
1.) yes I am in freezing temp zone.. (NJ)
2.) there is no spigot near that wall or even on adjacent wall.. I am not sure what that pipe is for. it is not connected to anything inside the home
3.) there is a window there that I will open to get the moisture out, I do have dehumidifier there already
It appears that the pipe may have cracked from freezing and is leaking underground. With the other things that drain near there you probably cannot tell that the ground is saturated from a leak. The water is finding its way back into the house by following the pipe.
I am not sure what that pipe is for.
Do you have an irrigation system for lawn or garden? Any out buildings in that direction? Fountain or garden pool? Irrigation, fountain or garden pool should have by code a back flow preventer and/or a vacuum breaker that needs to be above ground so the pipe would have to come up somewhere for that.
If you have the shut off valve that should be on that line installed you could shut it off and see what (if anything) no longer works.
Thank you, I have glued the pipe but now I come to think of it.. I think the whole thing needs some re-routing,
I want to merge these 3 lines ( 2 from roof and 1 from sump pump and the merged line should go all the way to street.
What do you think? how do I merge that 90 degree roof leaders? Also, I tried to find some connectors but nothing for 3 lines. and what size the merge line be ? 3" or 4"?
There are no fittings to combine plumbing PVC and aluminum downspouts. There are fittings to convert the downspout to a 4" PVC. Then you could join them.
At my house I have a similar situation. I used adapters to go from the downspouts to 4" PVC for a trip underground. About 20 feet from the house I installed a in ground enclosure with a lid. These are used over irrigation valves, water meters... I just ran all the pipes in on one end of the box. Then on the outlet side I have one pipe making the run all the way to the forest where it exits to daylight. The box is a easy way to combine all the piping and the removeable lid makes it easy to clean the lines if they ever become clogged.
Hello,
I am considering building my new house in concrete.
I was looking at ICF, but the high material cost of Styrofoam and plastic webs are not rectified.
So, I thought having the walls poured conventional until I came across precast concrete walls.
While I know that the conventional poured walls are complete surrounded by rebars, I cannot get my head around on how these precast walls get mounted together. They are just sections of concrete sheets.
[list]
[*]Are they bolted together at the seams?
[*]Are they as sturdy as the conventional poured walls?
[*]What is the advantage of these precast walls?
[/list]
Any insights from the specialists are appreciated.
Thank you.
Our house (circa 1880) has a rubble foundation, mostly in solid condition though the summer plans were to repoint anything needing attention. Clearing our first corner (inside) we noticed dirt and some water seepage in a couple spots at the base of the foundation where the slab had been poured. We figure this may have been a dirt floor with a slab poured later at the level of the bottom of the foundation, but no matter, our question is what we should do with the gaps were the stones don't dip below slab level to fill these voids where there is nothing but dirt?
In our preliminary research (we're noobs here) we've discovered some discussions about hydraulic cement, mortar, and concrete. Does anyone have experience with this scenario and advice for us?
03-05-23, 10:36 AM
