I have a concrete expansion joint where the original material has worn down and needs to be replaced. I've read on these boards and online about filling it in with a caulking material. Has anyone used any options other than the caulk?
If you live in or near a large city call their engineering department and ask what expansion joint fill sealer meets their approval standards.
It's my understanding that specifications for some large industrial floor areas use a brownish honey colored, almost lacquer-like semi-transparent self leveling material that becomes diamond hard yet doesn't break/crack and withstands movement and heavy use from forklifts, etc. I'm sure places like Amazon, NASA, Tesla, nuclear sites, etc. have their engineering experts test and come up with the absolute best expansion joint filler/sealer to use. If you could tap into that knowledge/information you'd receive the best input.
Last edited by Kooter; 07-06-23 at 01:02 PM.
Reason: orthography
I talked with City of Plano, TX (suburb of Dallas) engineering department and I was told that Polyurea Control Joint Fillers is found to be the best and holds up better in all their test conditions. Their testing over multiple years included suspended pavement, movement that is caused by extreme 100°+ and minus temperatures. He said it has been tested on portions of 'The High Five' suspended interchange (image below) here in Dallas.
The 'High Five' Interchange - Dallas, TX
Last edited by Kooter; 07-06-23 at 01:58 PM.
Reason: orthography
It seems most of the flexible tube applied filler from big box stores just ends up splitting, cracking, floating out or pulling away over time. It usually stands out from the concrete driveway and draws one's attention to it, which is not very favorable for most people.
You might need to force some backer rod down deep into the joint before using any type of expansion joint filler.
Yes, backer rod is a necessity. After the backer rod is in place you can even use almost any concrete filler or patch. It will last several years.
My driveway is asphalt, and the garage is concrete. Where they meet is a typical area of expansion or separation. Backer rod then concrete patch fixed mine for many years. Nothing will be permanent.
You might need to force some backer rod down deep into the joint
I just pour sand down into the cracks them using a fox tail brush run that along the joint to get a nice 1/2" deep area to fill.
If the slabs are stable I've got joints that are good for many years. If they shift or heave then you are correct they can tear and pull away. For those I just use polymeric sand and touch them up every year!
Spaceace - Look into granite dust to fill your expansion joint gap. Granite dust is highly-compactible and heavy, so it stays in-place nicely and levels out perfectly. Granite dust has a natural look that blends well with concrete so it will not stand out in contrast to the concrete like typical expansion joint filler does. Depending on sourcing It can be found in different colors. I suspect a gray or silver color would be the best color choice to match a concrete driveway.
So, I put internet in my garage. For the longest time, I had the cat 5 just lying on top of the ground. I finally buried the wire today. My garage has cement all around it on all sides, so the only way into the garage from the ground is through cement or under cement. Where I brought the wire to the cement, I cut the cement using a cement saw blade. Problem is the blade is circular so, when I push the circular saw up to the side of the garage, it doesn't cut a nice line right up to the garage. There's a few inches where I can't get the blade.
I have a multitool... really cool for cutting wood in tight places. If there was a way to use that or use something like that to cut the cement up to the garage, that would work. Was thinking about a chisel, but will that end up cracking the cement outside of where I want it cut?
After I get the wire in there good, I'll just run to home depot and get some cement caulk stuff to fill it in.Read More
Condensed backstory: 1896 build with stone & mortar footer and stem wall, over the years crawl space was dug out, no retaining wall or foundation reinforcement added, erosion SEVERLY undermined interior of foundation, perched water table as high as roughly 77" below floor joists, still working on eliminating surface water intrusion.
So far I've built a new poured concrete footer 3ft inboard of existing all the way around, bottom of footer 75" below floor joists, poured a slab to replace poorly cast in place cellar stairs, laying cmu block 6 courses plus 4" solid cap inside the cellar and 8 courses plus 4" solid caps outside for stairwell. Footer is 16" wide x 10" tall with extensive rebar, slab is 6" also extensively rebar'ed. I laid 4" weeping tile behind the blocks, core bored four 5" holes and placed tee's for drainage into the cellar where two sump pumps will be installed.
New cmu retaining wall will have jackposts to bear some load of the house and stiffen floor.
Questions:
Should I remove weeping tile and drain rock to apply waterproofing to exterior of masonry? I don't mind water intrusion as the situation dictates that water drain to the interior and be pumped out but I don't want a structural problem.
In backfilling between new cmu and undermined existing, i planned to mix flowable fill something like 20 to 30 parts sand, 1 part portland, water to create a slurry and add large stones in the middle of voids just to occupy space. Thoughts?
Anyone have experience using expanded metal and sprayed on stucco (or something similar heavy on the portland) to encase the exterior of a stone foundation where the mortar is soft and crumbly? Better method?
I can give much more detail and possibly add pictures. If you've read this far I'd appreciate any insight you may have. Thank you
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07-06-23, 10:55 AM
