How to Attach/Mount Very Large Cabinet to Wall

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  #1  
Old 08-16-02, 02:10 PM
generunner
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How to Attach/Mount Very Large Cabinet to Wall

I have constructed a mirror-backed, wooden-framed, glass-front curio cabinet of relative dimensions ~4ft x 3ft x 1.5ft, which must weigh almost 80 lbs. My question is to how does one go about mounting such a beast onto a wall? I'd assume some sort of bracket/brace configuration running from the inner wall studs to the cabinet directly. I couldn't attach said braces to the back of the cabinet unit because of the mirror inside. I could attach them to the sides, top and/or bottom. Being quite the amateur, I don't know the best way(s) to do this. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

techhelp@msn.fullfeed.com
 
  #2  
Old 08-18-02, 05:43 AM
fewalt's Avatar
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generunner,

As you know, most cabinets are installed by screwing through the back and into the wall studs. This would be the way to go if you could temporarily remove the mirror back. But it sounds like this is not an option.
I would install a horizontal ledger board (1x2 or whatever) attached to the wall studs, to rest the cabinet on. Along with some other type of fastener for sides and top.

fred
 
  #3  
Old 08-18-02, 09:54 AM
Trent Bridley
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Hi,
I agree with Fewalt, but I would bevel the top ledger so as that when it is placed on the wall the top edge of the bevel is away from the wall. This requires another ledger with the same bevel be attached to the cabinet only with the beveled edge down and to the wall. With carefull measuring you could put another set at the lower part of the cabinet. This will most likely extend your cabinet away from the wall by 3/4". Another idea might be to take a look at some washbasin brackets at a plumbing store and see if they might work. Use some well sized screws also.
good luck,
Trent
 
  #4  
Old 08-18-02, 02:57 PM
bez
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I like Trent's approach. Here's a quick way to create the interlocking ledgers: grab a 1x4 or 1x3 which is no longer than your cabinet is wide. Set your table saw to a 45 degree bevel cut. Now rip the 1x4 or 1x3 down the center.
Attach the top half of the ripped piece to the wall so that the bevel cut and the wall from a V. Attach the bottom half to the cabinet so that it will fit into the V when the cabinet is against the wall. When all done, the ripped piece should fit back together as it was before the ripping. The cabinet is now anchored.

You will have to do careful measuring to assure proper fit of the anchor pieces, AND either slide or lift the cabinet into place for the anchor to fit together.
 
  #5  
Old 08-18-02, 07:47 PM
Trent Bridley
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Hi,
Here is another idea if you are worried about the cabinet sitting out 3/4". You could miter the corners of the ledgers and add mitered trim in between the two ledgers. Drill a screw hole for a screw in each corner of the ledgers, hang the mirror insert the filler strips and fasten with the screws.
good luck,
Trent
 
  #6  
Old 08-18-02, 07:52 PM
Trent Bridley
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Sorry

Hi,
Should have read before I posted. Mistake, You would want to put the screws into the filler strip thus going into the ledgers.
Trent
 
  #7  
Old 08-19-02, 10:57 AM
generunner
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Please clarify

Thanks to all for the help. Unfortunately, I'm not totally picturing in my mind what you all are suggesting. I'm assuming a ledger is acting as a shelf upon which to rest/attach the cabinet. Thus if it's a 1x2 board, I'd picture the 1" side fastened to the studs and the 3" side fastened to the cabinet bottom. Correct? I'd picture this needing to be done on both the top and bottom sides of the cabinet. Would the 1x3 be attached to the studs through the drywall, or would it be easier to open up the wall and attach directly to the studs, thus placing the cabinet closer to the wall surface.

Interlocking ledgers makes me picture something like strips of wood attached independently to both the studs and the cabinet which would act more like a bracket system rather than a shelf-like system. Is this more in line with your suggestions?

Thanks again for the helpful suggestions.
 
  #8  
Old 08-19-02, 05:05 PM
bez
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What I'm suggesting is more in line w/ your second paragraph. AFTER the board is ripped at a bevel, attach one piece to the cabinet and the other piece to the wall (at stud locations). They need to be attached to their respective locations so that when the cabinet is put to the wall, and lifted a bit to achieve mating the bevels, the two new pieces of wood will interlock along the beveled surfaces. Hope this clairfies. Have a good time
 
  #9  
Old 08-20-02, 05:47 AM
Trent Bridley
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Hi.
Hope that this will help.
wall
l l /l l l l l
l l / l l l l l
l l l l l / l l
l l l l l/ l l cabinet
ledgers
good luck,
Trent
 
  #10  
Old 08-20-02, 07:49 AM
Trent Bridley
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Sorry,my little stick drawing didn't work.
 
  #11  
Old 08-20-02, 07:59 AM
bez
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How's this:

Here's the cabinet with one beveled piece attached--- [cab.]\

Here's the wall with the other beveled piece attached ----\[wall]

If you interlock the two beveled pieces (the \'s above), the cabinet will be held to the wall. It can still rest its weight on the floor, but the wooden hanger assembly will prevent it's tipping forward.

-bez-
 
  #12  
Old 08-20-02, 04:44 PM
generunner
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I understand the ledger concept now, thanks.
Two additional points now,

1) should the wall-side ledger be attached to the studs while laying against the drywall, or should I remove some drywall in order to attach the wall-side ledger directly to the studs so the cabinet will sit flush against the drywall when mounted?

2) I'd like to mount the cabinet entirely off of the ground, so the entire weight of the unit needs to be supported by these ledgers. Is that feasible or should additional measures be used too? ie. a bottomside shelf or side ledgers too?

Thanks to all.
 
  #13  
Old 08-20-02, 07:51 PM
Trent Bridley
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Hi
Since you say that the cabinet is about 80 pounds and will be used as a curio cabinet I would put up at least 2 ledgers, and use 3 or 3-1/2" , #10 or #12 flathead wood screws. Might be best to drill clearance holes with countersinks for the flathead screws, and pilot holes into the drywall and studs.
again-good luck,
Trent
 
 

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