Kitchen cabinet doors

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Old 03-02-03, 02:29 PM
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npbell
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Kitchen cabinet doors

After offering to make some cabinet doors for a neighbour I dicovered numerous styles of router bits to do this. Any opinion as to the strongest joint for a plain [not raised panel] design. The centre will probably be 1/4" veneered luaun. The wood is maple and the kitchen is in a rustic farmhouse?
 
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Old 03-02-03, 03:06 PM
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Mortise and tenon should do fine with a panel door. I have made a bunch of them. The big structural problems come with passageway doors and entry doors.
 
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Old 03-02-03, 05:39 PM
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npbell:

I am preparing to build new cabinet doors in a recessed panel design as you are, using red oak rails and stiles and 1/4" oak plywood.
I've done quite a bit of woodworking but never any cabinet work.

I've discovered the rail and stile bit, and am in the process of experimenting with set-up.
A problem I have is I own a 1/4"collet router and most of the sets I found were for 1/2".
I purchased a single combination bit that does both profiles.
It's a bit of a pain though because you have to shim it each time you take it apart for the different cut. I may just purchase a second bit and leave each one set up for the different profile.

Even though it's a pain to set up the joints are very professional looking and assembly of the door will be a snap.

I forgot to mention that this bit must be used on a router table.

http://www.newwoodworker.com/ralstilbitset.html
 
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Old 03-03-03, 02:33 PM
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Thank you for the input, as for the 1/2" shank comment this is the only way to go in my experience especially with oak. The combination bit you find a pain is indeed! I'm going to purchase a rail & stile set but there are so many variations of style, buying online is convenient but knowing exactly how it will turn out is still guesswork. Thank you again for the responses.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 05:22 PM
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npbell:

My drawers were already done when we bought the house so an ogee style was the closest match to the profile that was already done.
Like I said, I have sawdust in my veins but more from the Sawzall, chainsaw, 3 1/2" nail angle.
I was given a couple of routers by my dad with a collection of old burned bits. ( I thought they were supposed to be black and smell like burnt tar. )
The combo bit was my first bit purchase and in the last little while learned quite a bit.
My practice piece is a vanity with two 18"x24" doors and my kitchen will be about twenty doors ranging from 18"x24" to 24"x 60".
I would very much like to upsize my router and switch over to 1/2" shank bits, but this "small" project is getting bigger.

When I install the new oak face on my vanity I'll have to remove it to square it off and finish the sides. While it's out I might as well put down some new flooring but should put down some proboard as there are a few cracks in the pine floor. While I'm at it I might as well put in that recessed heat lamp fixture and wire it to a new timer, and it would be really nice to put a new pressure balanced valve in the shower....................AHHHHHHHHHH!

Am I the only one?
 
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Old 03-03-03, 05:35 PM
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Gregh, you are not the only one but it sounds like you'd be a good neighbour to have. It's winter here and the workshop burned down 1 1/2 years ago so heat is not yet hooked up [or decided on yet], needless to say I don't rush into things! Look forward to hearing how the' Tardis' bathroom comes along, you'll probably have that finished before my cabinet doors. Life is good is it not?
 
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Old 03-03-03, 06:41 PM
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You can cut the stile and rail joints on a table saw easier than having to get a larger router and a router table.

The key to having the joints match is to cut all of them at the same time, including some extras.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:07 PM
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Chris:

That was my original plan. I was going to cut the panel groove on the table saw and use a half lap joint.
It got a little complicated when I wanted to rout the inside edge to match my drawers.
I couldn't assemble the doors and rout the rails and stiles with the panel in place.
I also wasn't sure if I could clamp the assembled rails and stiles without the panel in a jig, rout the profile and then assemble and glue the pieces. This also seemed like a lot of work.

I guess I'll go with the 1/4" combo bit and hopefully it'll be ok if I take it easy.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:26 PM
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Instead of stile and rail conventionally, you could open the back of the stiles and rails so that the panel could drop in after assembly. This would not interfere with the half lap joint. You could assemble the doors without the panel, route the profile needed, then insert the panel and brad it from the back.
 
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Old 03-03-03, 08:45 PM
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Chris,

You are right, that would be simpler.
When I made my choice to go with a R&S bit I was not burdened by a lot of knowlege.

I spent a few hours fooling around with the setup and my samples are pretty close.
The rail sample is good for a set-up pattern and I just have to fine tune a couple of shims to close a slight gap on the ogee section on the stile.
This is where a second bit would be handy.
 
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