Advice On Which Nailer To Buy


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Old 02-10-05, 06:55 AM
greenlincoln
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Advice On Which Nailer To Buy

I want to buy an ELECTRIC (not pneumatic) nailer for uses such as building cabinets and other similar building projects around the house, but I don't want to waste my money on something that is underpowered. So I seek the advice of you great people to help me choose which brand, guage, etc. to buy. Thanks for any and all advice!!!
 
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Old 02-10-05, 07:23 AM
Sawdustguy
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Not that someone doesn't or hasn't done it, but I've never seen someone use an electric nailer for building cabinets. May I ask why you're not interested in a phenumatic? Cost?
 
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Old 02-10-05, 08:51 AM
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Arrow has some new models

You will probably want short, heavy-duty extension cords in order to maximize driving power. The Google search argument is "electric nailer".
 
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Old 02-10-05, 09:43 AM
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Talking

I've only had experience with the Craftsman electic nailer, but from that experience, I would definitely recommend pneumatic. The electric nailer would work very well if you were building your cabinets out of balsa.

You can pick up a small compressor for as little as $100 on sale if you don't already have one.

You'll have a much wider variety of nailer to choose from, too.

Good luck,
 
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Old 02-10-05, 10:08 AM
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Electric?

Well, if you want opinions, here's mine. If you don't want a pneumatic nailer, buy a cordless nailer. Dewalt recently came out with an 18V cordless finish nailer, which works great, although it's a bit heavy. The Paslode Cordless nailer is OK, but I've found the gas / battery combination to be a pain in the a$$, especially if you only use it infrequently.
 
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Old 02-10-05, 11:33 AM
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Not sure why not a pneumatic nailer..but could it be because you think the compressor is gas powered? - If so, there are electric powered pneumatic/compressors...which is something Im considering, when I can justify the purchase.
 
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Old 02-10-05, 01:57 PM
greenlincoln
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I don't want a pneumatic because I would think lugging a compressor around would be quite cumbersome, unless all jobs are completed in the garage, which they frequently arent. Am I missing something? Do they make really small, powerful compressors that are easily portable? Cost isn't REALLY a factor, just convenience. Thanks for your continued help.
 
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Old 02-10-05, 02:19 PM
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Greenlincoln,

Senco makes a small portable compressor that costs only $99. It probably weighs about 8 lbs, and it's so cute I just had to buy myself one the other day. It's great for taking into the house and doing small jobs, like what you plan on doing, the way it sounds.

It is also sold in kit form, with a hose and 5/8" to 2" 18 gauge brad gun for $189. I recommend it highly.
 
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Old 02-10-05, 07:28 PM
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Saw the Senco too

I saw that combo in a nail supply store this week. It is quite compact and should work well for brad/finish nailers as well as staplers. A framing nailer might work if you go slow and allow the compressor to catch up before continuing.
 
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Old 02-11-05, 04:08 AM
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greenlincoln,

If you are concerned about having to lug the compressor around, it isn't as bad as you might think. I recently replaced the baseboard and shoe molding in my entire downstairs while leaving the compressor in the garage. I think I have a 50' hose.

By the way, the hose is definitely worth giving some attention. I immediately replaced the hose that came with my original compressor with something more flexible and easy to handle.
 
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Old 02-11-05, 05:11 AM
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my 2 cents worth

greenlincoln,

form my experience i had a electric nailer and was ok for crafthing.
I gave it to my wife lol lol
I need a MAN tool.
I got a 6 gallon compressor and bouth a air nailer 18 ga and a 100' rubber hose.
Works real well, i leave the compressor in garage and made small cart to wheel it around.
I like it so much got an other nailer this time 16 ga.
And got all the other acc to completed it.
rachet, impack wrench,drill, air chisel, paint sparyer and bougth an other 50 ft house
i can go anywhere around the house and still have hose left over.
I've been in the trade for over 30 yrs and let me tell you, when you get to used them you will leave the hammer alone trust me.
Cant live without the air tool.
Same as doing match without calculator.

good luck.

Opps wife father's day is close so make wish list lol lol

cheers

pg
 
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Old 02-11-05, 10:15 AM
greenlincoln
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Ok you all have me convinced not to buy electric but go for pneumatic (with the exception perhaps of the new Dewalt 18v).

Can someone tell me what the difference is between a framing nailer and finish nailer? Seems like it would be more practical to buy a framing nailer (more uses) but not if it isn't appropriate for inside jobs.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 02-11-05, 12:41 PM
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Framing nailers shoot round or clipped head nails that usually range in size from 7d to 16d. (2 - 3 1/2" in length). This is commonly what you would use to frame walls with. Nails that will not be used in wet conditions will be plain steel nails (such as wall framing), but you can also purchase galvanized or stainless steel nails if they will be used for exterior surfaces (such as a deck).

Finish nailers shoot straight nails that do not have a round head. They are used primarily for finish work, such as cabinetry, installation of trim, casing, baseboard, and so on. Finish nailers come in several sizes. 15 (or 16) gauge are the larger ones, and they shoot finish nails that are from 1" to 2 1/2" long. 18 gauge nailers are commonly called "Brad nailers". Some shoot nails from 5/8" to 1 1/4", others will shoot 5/8" to 2 1/8".

Some guns are angled so that you can get into tight corners easier.

The kind of gun you buy will depend on the kind of work you will be doing with it. I own about 6 guns. Framing, Angled finish, long brad, short pin, utility nailer, roofing nailer, and it seems like I'm forgetting one. Oh yes, my coil siding nailer. They each have a specific purpose, but once you've used an air gun, you won't want to use a hammer again. Except maybe to set the finish nails that didn't go in all the way.
 
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Old 02-11-05, 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by XSleeper
They each have a specific purpose, but once you've used an air gun, you won't want to use a hammer again. Except maybe to set the finish nails that didn't go in all the way.

I also have several different guns for as many purposes.

Whats a hammer? How do you use it?
 
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Old 02-12-05, 08:17 AM
greenlincoln
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Ok I Just Bought One

Did I do ok? http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...ME:B:EOAB:US:6

Now I could use some guidance on which compressor to buy, I'm a girl so carrying a "portable" 45-pound compressor around is not my idea of portable. I've heard many say they like the pancake compressors. But I have no idea how much cfm, psi or tank gallonage I should aim for. Thanks for your suggestions.
 
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Old 02-12-05, 08:31 AM
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Seems like a decent price for a good gun. the link below is an owners manual from the Porter Cable Website. you may want to download it and print it out for reference. I'm sure it has info on the issue of compressor requirements for the gun.

http://media.ptg-online.com/media/pc...2012-31-01.pdf
 
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Old 02-12-05, 10:49 AM
greenlincoln
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Thank you

Thank you, Herm, you are most kind.
 
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Old 02-12-05, 08:56 PM
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For what it's worth, I purchased the same gun (Porter Cable 16 ga) last year, and I've been very pleased with it's results. Sometime after, I purchased Porter Cable's pancake compressor/brad nailer combo kit. For casing, baseboard, minor tacking jobs, and other household projects, the guns/compressor have worked great.
 
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Old 02-13-05, 04:41 AM
greenlincoln
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The Husker, what is the capacity of the pancake you got in the combo? It is sufficient to power the larger nailer? I just found one on ebay and I'll set my sites on that one if you tell me it recycles and powers the shots ok. Here it is: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...e=STRK:MEWA:IT Is this the same or similar to one you have? Many thanks.
 

Last edited by greenlincoln; 02-13-05 at 05:34 AM.
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Old 02-13-05, 11:41 AM
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Oilless and oil compressors

The PC pancake and a number of oil-free compressors should power just about any nailer/stapler/bradder that you want to use. They have the advantage of operating on sloped surfaces. The oil bath compressors must be kept level, but are somewhat quieter. Most of these units will be about 60-70 pounds, so they're not lightweights.
The differences between the 1, 1.5 and 2 hp motors is recovery time to bring the tank back up to pressure.
For occasional use, they should work OK.
These small nailers can also be run from an air tank, filled from the compressor.
 
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Old 02-13-05, 12:15 PM
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Dear Greenlincoln,

just for your reference, the compressor you are looking at on ebay retails for $189 when it's brand new. Since the one on ebay is used, you should be able to get it for significantly less.

You might want to ask the seller what model number the compressor is, since "Model # cffn250n" is actually a kit number (gun, compressor, hose), not a compressor number. Legally, he would have to sell you a kit! (ha ha)

An advanced search of completed items at ebay will give you a guide of how much to expect to pay for this item. There are a lot of similar items that sell today: http://search.ebay.com/Porter-Cable-...eleafcatZ22662

Hope you get one that you like!
 
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Old 02-13-05, 08:31 PM
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When purchasing a compressor on eBay, also look for the shipping fee, which is usually factored in after the actual closing price. Buying a "used" compressor is also a gamble. Personally, I'd look for a new (never used) one and take shipping fees into consideration to see if you're really getting a good deal.
 
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Old 02-24-05, 07:09 PM
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I also have a P-C 16 gauge straight nailer (among at least a dozen others of aLL types). It probably gets more use than anything I've got, so your choice is an excellent one. Three tips. 1) Always put a few drops of oil (4-5 for a gun that size) before each day's use. 2) When you put it away, remove the nails and release the pressure on the spring. This will help the spring feed nails better in the long run. 3) Select the proper length nail for the application. Sure, the gun will shoot up to a 2-1/2" nail but the appropriate nail length will be the one that puts 2/3 of the nail length into the wood to which the piece is being attached. For example, a 1/2" thick piece of trim would need a 1-1/2" nail.
 
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Old 02-24-05, 07:12 PM
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1-1/2" nail on a 1/2" thick piece of molding? Why? Isn't that a bit long and subjective to splitting or cracking?
 
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Old 02-25-05, 07:25 AM
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I guess I should have said a 1/2" thick piece of trim would need a maximum 1-1/2" nail. The rule of thumb I've heard all my life is that the nail should be three times as long as the trim piece is thick. My point was that most of the people I've seen buying nail guns at HD and Lowes buy only the longest nail or brad the gun will shoot and then blame the nailer for problems caused by too long of a nail.

Personally, I would use an 18 gauge brad on a piece of moulding only 1/2" thick. The length of the brad would depend on a number of things, whether or not I was using glue, to what the piece was being nailed, etc. Obviously, if you were nailing a 1/2" piece to another 1/2" piece you would want to use a shorter nail (3/4" - 7/8" ??) to keep it from coming out the other side. I've not had many problems with splitting wood with a pneumatic driven brad. For very hard woods, if I am having trouble with the wood splitting, I square up the ends of my brads on a grinder (taking the chisel point off). This way, rather than slicing through the wood, possibly separating layers, the brad compresses the fibers on the way in. This is the same thing as dulling the point of a brad or nail that is hand driven.
 
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Old 02-25-05, 08:40 AM
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Tx,

There should be no reason to grind them down. Depending upon what gun you have, which I'm sure most would accept it, there are "Headless" 18 gauge nails. For a piece of 1/2" trim going into another piece of wood, a 1" nail would be more than enough; especially if you're gluing it on. All you'd want to do would be to "Hold" the molding in place while the glue dries.

I use a phenumatic nailer 7 days a week at work. Ya, 7 days, it stinks, and I've yet to have problems using that length nail. If you stay at least 2-3" away from the end of the molding, it should help reduce any cracking or splitting.

Also, check the pressure that is coming out of your hose. That too can be a factor on why a nail splits the wood. "Too much pressure"
 
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Old 02-25-05, 09:18 AM
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We're starting to get off topic here guys.

greenlincoln got her question answered, bought a nailer, got enough advice on compressor requirements for her gun to make an educated decision on purchasing one.

If we are going to start debating about proper use of tools, another thread can be opened in the tool forum of the website.

I'm afraid I'm going to have to close this thread.
 
 

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