Staining oak wood

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  #1  
Old 02-20-05, 10:29 PM
KLINK167
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Staining oak wood

I just built my wife a beautiful craft table using oak wood. Her main table is 6.5' x 4'. In the middle of the table I drew the entire state of Michigan to include the 5 Great Lakes (we are both from MI). We have stained the table with minwax natural stain. We plan on staining the Great Lakes with a daker stain. The problem we are running into is that the stain "bleeds" out of the lakes into the natural stain area, and does not give a definite line. Is there a way to stop the bleeding? Thank you for your time and help.
 
  #2  
Old 02-20-05, 10:33 PM
Sawdustguy
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Hmm, that's a toughy. did you try to tape those outside edges off with Blue Masking tape?
 
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Old 02-20-05, 10:38 PM
KLINK167
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Originally Posted by Sawdustguy
Hmm, that's a toughy. did you try to tape those outside edges off with Blue Masking tape?
Yes, I did. It stills runs underneath.
 
  #4  
Old 02-20-05, 10:42 PM
Sawdustguy
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Then at that point, there isn't much you can do my friend. It's very difficult to do. The stain is going to soak where it wants to go and there really isn't any controling it.

What about taking an artists brush and lightly staining the outside line. Don't soak the brush or you'll end up with the same problem. You almost want to paint the stain on around the edges. Have a rag with mineral spirts handy to wipe any access that may go over the line.
 
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Old 02-20-05, 10:45 PM
KLINK167
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Originally Posted by Sawdustguy
Then at that point, there isn't much you can do my friend. It's very difficult to do. The stain is going to soak where it wants to go and there really isn't any controling it.

What about taking an artists brush and lightly staining the outside line. Don't soak the brush or you'll end up with the same problem. You almost want to paint the stain on around the edges. Have a rag with mineral spirts handy to wipe any access that may go over the line.
Thank you, I will give that a try.
 
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Old 02-20-05, 10:49 PM
Sawdustguy
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Get a flat painters brush. Not a round one. I would say about 1/4" to 1/2" wide. You'll probably have to go to a art supply or craft store like Hobby Lobby. Just go slowwwwwwww when doing it.

Chime back to let me know how it worked.

Thanks
 
  #7  
Old 02-20-05, 10:58 PM
KLINK167
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Originally Posted by Sawdustguy
Get a flat painters brush. Not a round one. I would say about 1/4" to 1/2" wide. You'll probably have to go to a art supply or craft store like Hobby Lobby. Just go slowwwwwwww when doing it.

Chime back to let me know how it worked.

Thanks
I most certainly will!
 
  #8  
Old 02-20-05, 11:06 PM
Sawdustguy
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Remember. Don't start your stain on the line. Set the brush down about 1/4" before the line, pull it back, get closer pull it back, and then go to the line and then pull it all the way back. You don't want the main amount of your material to hit the final line on the first try. You want to work your way toward the line and by pulling the brush back after each time will help prevent the stain from dripping over. You might want to have a dry brush, same size too while doing it, incase you get too much on there. But work your way in/out toward the line. Good luck. Questions, ask away.
 
  #9  
Old 02-21-05, 11:10 AM
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KLINK167


I'm assuming you used solid oak for the top.

Stain does not stop at a certain line, it will "wick" in to surrounding areas as your trying to accomplish your different colored areas, as you know already.

How do you plan on finishing the top over the stain?

Mike is right - this is a tough one.

My thought is to score a line around the different colored area in the top of the table so when you apply the darker colored stain, it may not wick into the natural areas as bad, at least on the surface. You can probably score a line with a utility knife, or similar. You will need a steady hand, but if you have a steady enough hand to draw the great lakes, you should be able to score a line around it.
While it may bleed into some of the areas, you may be able to go back with a sander to lose the bleeded areas altogether, or at least make them not so noticable.

This, of coarse, will require that your final finish will be thick enough to fill in the scored line around the great lakes. This may take several layers of lacquer with sanding between coats until it's filled.

Never tried this before, but it may be worth a try.
 
  #10  
Old 02-22-05, 09:15 AM
KLINK167
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We have successfully completed the "hard" part of the project, and will let you know what we did that worked. We have heard several ideas, and tested them on a piece of leftovers.

Oak sheet of plywood measures 6.5' x 4'. My wife drew the State of Michigan with the Great Lakes using pencil on a very smooth sanded down surface. She pressed hard enough to see the line.

We then stained the entire table top (minus the Great Lakes) with natural minwax stain, and let it air dry for 8 hours. We did not stain the area of the Great Lakes as this will be a different stain color. Some bleeding occurred into the Lakes, however it wasn't a big deal as the Lake stain she wanted was the darker stain.

Now, it was time to stain the Great Lakes. We used provincial minwax stain, which is much darker that natural (these colors are what my wife wanted if you were wondering why we used these 2 stains). We bought a small brush paint set at Home Depot. You get 5 different sizes, all small enought for the job. They are located in the paint section. She dipped the brush into the stain soaking it well. Then she dabbed it into a rag. When she put the stain in the areas of the Lakes, she started in the middle, slowly working her way to the line, stroking away from the line. Very, very, minimal bleeding.

When it dried after 8-12 hours, she took a pencil eraser and lightly erased the pencil line. Then she took a dark brown magic marker to cover to complete the seperation of the stains. It looks great!

We didn't want to burn or score the image in because I wasn't sure how much poly it would take to smooth it out. I have put several heavy coats of poly on, it is a craft table!

Thanks again for you ideas and help, and if you want I can email you a picture. I am not sure how to do this thru the site, so suggestions would be great.
 
  #11  
Old 02-22-05, 09:16 AM
KLINK167
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Originally Posted by Herm
KLINK167


I'm assuming you used solid oak for the top.

Stain does not stop at a certain line, it will "wick" in to surrounding areas as your trying to accomplish your different colored areas, as you know already.

How do you plan on finishing the top over the stain?

Mike is right - this is a tough one.

My thought is to score a line around the different colored area in the top of the table so when you apply the darker colored stain, it may not wick into the natural areas as bad, at least on the surface. You can probably score a line with a utility knife, or similar. You will need a steady hand, but if you have a steady enough hand to draw the great lakes, you should be able to score a line around it.
While it may bleed into some of the areas, you may be able to go back with a sander to lose the bleeded areas altogether, or at least make them not so noticable.

This, of coarse, will require that your final finish will be thick enough to fill in the scored line around the great lakes. This may take several layers of lacquer with sanding between coats until it's filled.

Never tried this before, but it may be worth a try.
See above, and thanks!
 
  #12  
Old 02-22-05, 10:40 AM
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hi
get a candle and rub it along the outline.
this will prevent bleeding and used blue tape to mask the inner part.
If you have no candle used vaseline it works also

cheers

pg
 
 

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