Shelving assistance request. Plywood and 2x4...


  #1  
Old 07-08-05, 03:13 PM
SkyvanDelta
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Shelving assistance request. Plywood and 2x4...

Hello

I need to build some free standing, removable, plywood or metal shelving in a Ford Box Van that could support 200-300-400-500lbs per shelf starting at 3 feet above the floor, maybe 2-3 shelves per unit.

Should I use metal or wood? Here is what I'm thinking in the wood part.

The box interior is 7'8 wide x 13'8 long x 7 feet high.

There are 1x5 wood slats that are skipped sheating attached to metal studs for the box truck.

I need to build some interior shelving, preferably free standing shelving so I can pull it out or tie it down as needed.

Thinking of a passage way of approx 2' down the center of the box from the cockit sliding door to the rear door of the box. Shelving on both sides, approx 2-3' wide and 8-13'8 long. 2 or 3 levels per shelf.

Trying to figure out the fastest, easiest, cut list with best use of 2x2, 2x4, 4x8 plywood to construct.

If I should use 2x4's or 2x2's, 2x3's...

nailing schedule, layout, plywood thickness...

nail or screw, size...

Need to know basic layout and nailing specs.

Can anyone help with this project by

1. telling me how to do it with diagrams/pictures/links if posssible.

2. referring me to posts on this site or other websites that clearly explain how to do this?

If I use metal shelving, can anyone suggest the best manufacturer for the price and ease of use?

Thankyou so much.

you can respond here or email me at skyvandelta@yahoo.com
 

Last edited by SkyvanDelta; 07-08-05 at 03:23 PM.
  #2  
Old 07-08-05, 04:01 PM
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Trying to figure out the fastest, easiest, cut list
2x4 framing is best for strength and joinery. Anything less will require more complicated structural design.

3/4" plywood is a must for shelfs that carry weight. Supported at least every 4ft or less.

Free standing shelves are a bad idea. They will be at risk of falling. Attach the units to the wall after you build them, with a few screws.

Screws verses nails. Both work. Your choice. Screws preferred if you don't have a nail gun.
 
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Old 07-08-05, 08:55 PM
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For the type of load factors stated, each shelf should have a 2x4 oriented vertically under the leading and trailing edge for reinforcement. I would also recommend a 2x4 oriented horizontally to connect the tops of the shelf frames to keep them at a constant separation. Tack some rubber mats (old floorboard mats would do) to each shelf to keep things from sliding around. Plywood at the forward and aft end of each shelf so that when the brakes are applies nothing comes flying off.
 
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Old 07-09-05, 05:41 AM
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More thoughts. You will benefit from having a front edge shelf deep lip on all shelves. Similar to the design of a parts bin. And maybe some shock cords to help hold contents from falling off the shelf.
 
 

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