Dowels, Biscuits or Pocket Holes
#1
Dowels, Biscuits or Pocket Holes
I'm making a fairly wide (10'), low (22") cabinet out of 3/4" maple faced plywood, and I'm trying to decide on which of these three options to use for the joints. I don't do a lot of fine capentry, and may not make much future use of the tool set that I buy - so I'm looking for the most cost effective solution.
The kreg pocket hole system looks to be pretty good - but the price tag ($140) is pretty steep.
A name brand biscuit joiner is about $100 or more. A decent dowel jig is about $40.
So my question is this - is a dowel joint noticeably inferior in strength to the other two options? I don't need to save time on the job, so efficiency if not a concern. Ease of use (getting an accurate joint) and joint strength are the issues. Any feedback is appreciated.
Alan
The kreg pocket hole system looks to be pretty good - but the price tag ($140) is pretty steep.
A name brand biscuit joiner is about $100 or more. A decent dowel jig is about $40.
So my question is this - is a dowel joint noticeably inferior in strength to the other two options? I don't need to save time on the job, so efficiency if not a concern. Ease of use (getting an accurate joint) and joint strength are the issues. Any feedback is appreciated.
Alan
#2
Pocket holes will make the best joint in my opinion, and I think it is also the easiest joint for a novice to make. Regarding the price of the Kreg system, you're looking at the Kreg ProPack, which *is* expensive. All you need in order to make pocket holes is the Mini Kreg Pocket hole kit, which is only $19.95 in my catalogs. (Our local Menards sells the jig and the stepped drill bit w/ stop collar seperately for about $18 a piece) Then you'll need some 1 1/4" fine threaded washer-style head pocket screws, which are about $5 per 100. If you have a c-clamp or a quick clamp, you just clamp the Mini Kreg to the work piece and drill. It's quite simple. Much more simple than dowels, and LOTS stronger since you have a mechanical fastener, not just wood and glue.
#3
aj3,
I'll second XSleeper on the pocket jig. I do A LOT of joints with it because it is so easy to use. Another note: you can buy a "biscuit bit" for your router that will enable you to make biscuit joints. It his however far less versatile than the actual tool.
I'll second XSleeper on the pocket jig. I do A LOT of joints with it because it is so easy to use. Another note: you can buy a "biscuit bit" for your router that will enable you to make biscuit joints. It his however far less versatile than the actual tool.
#5
I prefer the pocket hole method myself, and there is a cheaper alternative to the Kreg system. It's basically the same thing as the Kreg jig, only 1/2 the price. Here's a link to it.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/phjig2.html
I use pocket holes for joining face frames, ply to ply (sometimes) and face frames to ply.
http://www.pennstateind.com/store/phjig2.html
I use pocket holes for joining face frames, ply to ply (sometimes) and face frames to ply.
#7
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For the ply to ply I use dado and rabbet joints and just glue. They can be easily cut with a router and straight edge or board. I usually put masking tape down to help prevent splintering. Then I've attached the faceboards on with biscuits. But you can use any of the above methods.
#8
Personally, my preferred method of ply to ply joints is also rabbet and dado cuts, with glue. Brads are alway shot into the joint for more strength while the glue is setting up, but I have used pocket hole joinery for ply to ply joints when neccessary (also with glue).
#9
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The problem with pocket holes in plywood to plywood is that plywood generally doesn't hold screws really well. By far the rabbet and dado will be a superior joint. I have had good success with the biscuit joiner and it is very forgiving so easy to make accurate joints. Consider borrowing one if this is the only job you have for it.