GIANT Shadowbox Frame

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Old 12-27-05, 05:29 PM
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GIANT Shadowbox Frame

I'm currently working on an art project that requires a 2 1/2 inch deep shadowbox frame without glass. The problem is that it needs to be 5' x 10' (5ft. by 10ft.). Can this even be done? I thought of using aluminum because of its light weight and strength, but with a piece of this size I'm worried that it wouldn't be very rigid. Does anyone know how I could go about making this OR where I could go to have it made by a professional?
 
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Old 12-28-05, 07:01 AM
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i would think any professional framer or mirror shop could do it for you. but if you want to diy, i'll move this to the Carpentry/Woodworking topic for better advice.
 
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Old 12-31-05, 03:00 AM
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giant shadowbox frame

We call this size shadow box a bedroom where I live. I'm not even going to ask what you will be housing in it. Oh, yes I will. What are you going to put in it? Will you have shelves? Will they be offset or in line? Will there be a center divider? How deep do you need it? Answer these, and I'll take a stab at helping with a design and how to build it rock solid. Now, it will be heavy, and quite unwieldy so you will have to mount it to a wall, and it may be best to build it in place. Would this be an option?
 
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Old 01-01-06, 03:36 PM
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Yep, I agree to consider building it in place on the wall because the wall will provide the 3rd dimension of strength and support.
 
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Old 01-05-06, 10:05 AM
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Thanks for the replies! There will be no shelves in the shadow box nor will there be any glass over it. This piece will need to be moved/shipped to whoever buys it, so I'm trying desperately to make it as unweildy as possible. I was thinking of using aluminum to build the shadow box because of its weight and strength. Maybe using a big "X" on the back using aluminum tubing would prevent the wobbling? I'm sorry I can't yet tell anyone what I'm making, but I will say that I am attempting to break a Guiness record. Thanks again for the replies!
 
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Old 01-05-06, 01:32 PM
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With no back support, it sounds like your design exceeds the joinery specifications used for most ordinary cabinet or box frame construction methods. With aluminum, you will likely need specialty joinery connectors not commonly available to anyone except manufacturers.

While a big 'x' will help stabilize it, it will not perform as you expect. The 'x' brace itself would require a powerful center, such as you would achieve by welding the 'x' together.

Basically, your box is way too big to hold up, given your design requirements.

That aside. Come on, tell us, please, what c'ha making?
 
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Old 01-08-06, 07:41 PM
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Lugnut- Is there ANY way to make a box this big that won't be too unweildy? I have access to a welder, so that's a definite possibility. What about welded aluminum "bars" running horizontally and vertically accross the back (like a grid) instead of the "X"?
 
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Old 01-09-06, 02:27 PM
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Suggest you ask that question on the "welding and Metalworking" forum. I have never welded aluminum, (yet). Your question does not have a short answer, as it is about 'design'. When discussing design, you will ULTIMATELY have to reveal the application and the purpose in order for others to help you.
 
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Old 08-11-06, 04:35 AM
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I once made a shadowbox something like what you're describing. It was about 7' x 2' , 3" deep, had a 1/4" plywood back and plexiglass front. A nice piece of kimono fabric hung inside.

The front and back parts were actually floating in dados, in the 1-by stuff, so not really helping structurally.

I think your 5' x 10' is workable. If you can add even 1/2" to the depth that will help a lot. Anyway, hanging on a wall, it'll be just fine.

I assume a continuous backing of sheet material (plywood) is acceptible or even preferred.
 
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Old 08-11-06, 06:15 AM
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Frame

Build frame using 2x4 stock laid flat.

1. 1 each 10 ft long for top and bottom.
2. 1 each 4 ft. 5 in. for the ends.
3. 1 spanning the center 9 ft. 5 inches.
4. 1 each located in center of top to center of the center span in item 3 above. (length 24.75 in.)
5. Repeat item 4 above for the bottom section.
This will give you a frame made up of 4 equal sections. You can then cover with plywood and have all the joints on the frame.
Run a board around the outside of the correct width to give the required depth.
 
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