edge to edge glueing
#1
04-10-07, 07:20 AM
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edge to edge glueing
Hello all,
I have a plan that calls for 3 1" x 6" x 36" hard maple boards to be glued together edge to edge for a piece that measures 18" wide. I've never done this, so...
1) Do they make hard maple boards that are 1" x 18" x 36", b/c that would be the simplest solution. The widest I've seen them at HD or Lowes seems to be 12".
2) If no to the above, how to I glue them together and maintain a flat board?
Jeremy
I have a plan that calls for 3 1" x 6" x 36" hard maple boards to be glued together edge to edge for a piece that measures 18" wide. I've never done this, so...
1) Do they make hard maple boards that are 1" x 18" x 36", b/c that would be the simplest solution. The widest I've seen them at HD or Lowes seems to be 12".
2) If no to the above, how to I glue them together and maintain a flat board?
Jeremy
#3
04-10-07, 09:21 AM
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#4
04-10-07, 09:32 AM
You can't use biscuits without a biscuit joiner to cut the groove. I have seen kits for converting 4" grinders into a biscuit cutter.
You will need to use clamps to hold the glued boards together so it is possible to glue them up without biscuits [biscuits just make it easier/stronger] Working on a level surface and possibly using shims [between the wood and clamp]to keep the boards level should work ok.
You will need to use clamps to hold the glued boards together so it is possible to glue them up without biscuits [biscuits just make it easier/stronger] Working on a level surface and possibly using shims [between the wood and clamp]to keep the boards level should work ok.
#5
04-10-07, 09:34 AM
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jeremy1701,
No, you don't absolutely have to have bisquits. They are very helpful in keeping the surfaces of the boards even during glue-up. You can align them without bisquits however. Just clamp them up, keepng the clamps just loose enough to adjust the surfaces up and re-tighten the clamps. Clamping a straight edge of some sort across the glued up panel helps, but you have to make sure you don't make it permanent with too much glue squeeze out.
Another thing that you need to watch out for is that the edges mate without gaps with little or no clamp pressure. This may be difficult unless you find some very straight boards or you have a jointer. If you pull a gap together with the clamps, the joint is likely to fail at some time in the future.
One more thing....as marksr says, the end result after the glue-up will certainly require some sanding or scraping to finish it up. This is quite normal.
No, you don't absolutely have to have bisquits. They are very helpful in keeping the surfaces of the boards even during glue-up. You can align them without bisquits however. Just clamp them up, keepng the clamps just loose enough to adjust the surfaces up and re-tighten the clamps. Clamping a straight edge of some sort across the glued up panel helps, but you have to make sure you don't make it permanent with too much glue squeeze out.
Another thing that you need to watch out for is that the edges mate without gaps with little or no clamp pressure. This may be difficult unless you find some very straight boards or you have a jointer. If you pull a gap together with the clamps, the joint is likely to fail at some time in the future.
One more thing....as marksr says, the end result after the glue-up will certainly require some sanding or scraping to finish it up. This is quite normal.
#6
04-10-07, 10:10 AM
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Thanks for the tips!
I've been reading about using a router and table as a make-shift biscuit joiner. Would this better or worse then simply gluing them?
I've been reading about using a router and table as a make-shift biscuit joiner. Would this better or worse then simply gluing them?
#7
04-10-07, 10:17 AM
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jeremy1701,
I think that for one glue-up 36" long, I would just glue them up without bisquits. You would probably have to buy a router bit and biscuits. Not sure it's worth it for one job.
By the way, start with boards longer than 36". You'll have to trim the panel to finished dimensions after the glue dries.
Good luck,
I think that for one glue-up 36" long, I would just glue them up without bisquits. You would probably have to buy a router bit and biscuits. Not sure it's worth it for one job.
By the way, start with boards longer than 36". You'll have to trim the panel to finished dimensions after the glue dries.
Good luck,
#8
04-10-07, 12:01 PM
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Boards
Be aware that a 1x6 is only 5 1/2 inches wide. Three will not give you 18 inches of width.
#9
04-10-07, 03:34 PM
In addition, reverse your end grains on every other board to prevent warping later on. Maple is a very hard and lightly porous wood, and you may have to use something like Titebond III to get a good glue up. Polyurethane glue is another alternative if you don't use biscuits. It will ooze more than regular glue, but that is the nature of the beast, since it expands. I still vote for the biscuit jointer. It may be possible to rent one. Maple ain't cheap, and you obviously are making something you want to keep.
#10
04-11-07, 06:17 AM
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You don't say what you are building, but if strength is important, you could go "old school" and use dowels.
#11
04-11-07, 06:51 AM
Originally Posted by Wayne Mitchell
you could go "old school" and use dowels.
GOOD POINT!!!!
How soon we forget how it used to be done
all you need is a dowel rod and the right size drill bit.
#12
04-11-07, 06:57 AM
Group Moderator
The suggestions already given would probably work, with varying degrees of quality, but a really nice way to join boards so that they will be flush with one another is to use a router and a glue joint router bit. (example: http://www.amanatool.com/bitdetails/55388.jpg)
Of course, this is assuming you have a router table and the money to blow on an additional bit!
Of course, this is assuming you have a router table and the money to blow on an additional bit!
#15
04-11-07, 10:29 AM
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I've never seen a glue joint bit with a 1/4" shank. Even all the cheap-o's on ebay are all 1/2" shanks. Surely you could get a 1/2" collet for your router!
The grinder seems a bit extreme... maybe you could weld a 1/4" shank onto the 1/2" one. LOL
But in addition to the above, you might have less cupping of the boards if you joined smaller dimension lumber... lots of 1x2's or 1x4's instead of just 3 1x6's. It's a lot more joining and glueing, but the end result might be better. Maybe for a beginner, joining three 1x6's is enough of a challenge!
The grinder seems a bit extreme... maybe you could weld a 1/4" shank onto the 1/2" one. LOL
But in addition to the above, you might have less cupping of the boards if you joined smaller dimension lumber... lots of 1x2's or 1x4's instead of just 3 1x6's. It's a lot more joining and glueing, but the end result might be better. Maybe for a beginner, joining three 1x6's is enough of a challenge!
#17
04-11-07, 10:41 AM
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LOL, good point, marksr! And then you'd need a whole new set of 1/2" shank bits to go with it! 
Just to clarify... I *was* joking about the welding comment... don't want to get banned for advocating unsafe practices or anything...
Just to clarify... I *was* joking about the welding comment... don't want to get banned for advocating unsafe practices or anything...
#18
04-11-07, 10:52 AM
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#21
04-12-07, 09:28 PM
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Jeremy1701 didn't say what the board was for, but a spline would show on the end grain of the boards, unless you do a "breadboard" edge. Bisquits would not. I've been edge glueing hard rock maple - soft maple, and many other hard woods for years, and have never used either for a size like that. Clamping is the key. I make sure the edges are close when clamping, and use a deadblow mallet, or hammer and sacraficial board to do the "fine adjustments". It will need to be sanded after anyway.
As Chandler said, alternate grains to compromise for warpage .
You will normally need to have enough wood to make a piece that's both wider and longer than your intended finished piece. After gluing, you'll have to cut it to size. It helps to acheive a perfectly square piece, with smooth edges.
As Chandler said, alternate grains to compromise for warpage .
You will normally need to have enough wood to make a piece that's both wider and longer than your intended finished piece. After gluing, you'll have to cut it to size. It helps to acheive a perfectly square piece, with smooth edges.
#25
04-13-07, 02:29 PM
Just felt I had to weight in on this. From your post its seems you may not have a router yet. If you decide to use the router method (biscuits or routed edges will both work) look for a router that has interchangeable collets. My router can easily change collet sizes from 1/4" to 1/2" and it came with three different housings - all for under $200. I use it for a lot of different tasks and if you intend to do a lot of hands-on stuff it is a great addition to your shop.
