Interior Window moulding trim

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Old 05-09-07, 06:08 PM
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Question Interior Window moulding trim

I have a window that I am putting wood trim around on the interior. The trim fits nice and flat at the top. But, as I get 1/2 way down both sides of the window and also accross the bottom. The trim starts to gap away from the window frame because the drywall is not flush with the window frame. At some points it may be up to 3/8 inch of a gap. How can I fix this. I still have not put on the trim because of this problem. I though of putting in paintable caulk. But the gap seemed so large, is it OK to use caulk to fill the gap?

Thanks for any help on this.
 
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Old 05-09-07, 07:04 PM
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You didn't mention if these are new windows or not, but sometimes when you install new windows with nailing flanges, the window can flex on the nailing fin. If that's the case, see if you can pull the window in on bottom (provided you haven't foamed it in place). Sometimes you can have a helper push the window in, while you install a couple screws through the jamb to prevent it from springing back out.

Wall thicknesses are supposed to be uniform around window openings. Since your window isn't flush with the drywall either the window isn't pushed in all the way, or the wall thickness is wider on the bottom for some reason!!!

So, if the jamb can't be pushed in, check to see if the drywall can be screwed tighter to the wall. Sometimes irregular framing around the rough opening will cause the drywall to be proud. If this is the case, and it won't go back, you can sometimes take a reciprocating saw and buzz behind the drywall and cut off any protruding framing.

If none of the above helps, then you're stuck with trimming the opening as is. You have 2 options:

1). Inset the casing into the drywall by scribing the edge of the casing and chiselling the drywall FLAT with the jamb. This will create a taper once the casing is installed because it will be sitting on top of the drywall on top, but will be sunken into the drywall on bottom. (doesn't look too hot, and makes the taper obvious. Caulking the outside edge covers irregularities.)

2). Beat the drywall down to nothing in the areas the casing will cover which will create a BEVEL behind the casing, and alter your miters to fit. (will be a compound angle).

IMO, the 2nd option will be best. If your casing is 2 1/4" wide, I'd cut the paper of the drywall 2" away. (your casing will cover this cut line by about 1/4".) Then use a chisel or putty knife to remove the drywall paper. Once it's off, then you can scrape the drywall and bevel it from your cut edge to the window, creating an angle that the trim will lay on. Alternatively, you can beat it down with a hammer in a crude fashion, which is what most carpenters will do to save time. Once the drywall is removed, your casing will lay tight against the wall and against the window. But the miters on bottom won't be perfect 45's with 0 degrees of bevel like the miters on top will be. Instead, both pieces that form the bottom miters would be cut at maybe 43 degrees, with maybe 2 degrees of bevel. Another way to cut them would be to put a shim (equal in thickness to the amount of drywall you removed- 3/8"?) under the outside edge of the casing, while the inside edge lays flat on the miter table. Then cut your 45's. If the angle isn't right, you'd adjust the thickness of the shim.

On corners that are that bad, you will want to take a couple scraps of casing and play with the miter until you get it figured out. Once you get the miter to look nice on your scraps, then you'll cut the real thing.
 
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