sticky door won't shut right
#1
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sticky door won't shut right
When I bought this house 6 years ago- immediately I had two doors that seemed to catch at the top right away.
On one- it seemed a good fix to continually tighten the screws on the hinges to the door frame at the very top. Eventually, these screws stripped the wood. I THINK I took the door down and applied some good wood glue or putty or something to the frame, let it set- then went back and affixed the door to the frame and the problem was solved.
Problem is- I can't remember what I used and I'm not that good at these things. Now I have a bathroom door that really needs attention with the same problem. Those screws have stripped the inside of the frame, if I am describing that right.
What the best thing to use here-- anyone got any tips?
I'm a novice on much of these things
On one- it seemed a good fix to continually tighten the screws on the hinges to the door frame at the very top. Eventually, these screws stripped the wood. I THINK I took the door down and applied some good wood glue or putty or something to the frame, let it set- then went back and affixed the door to the frame and the problem was solved.
Problem is- I can't remember what I used and I'm not that good at these things. Now I have a bathroom door that really needs attention with the same problem. Those screws have stripped the inside of the frame, if I am describing that right.
What the best thing to use here-- anyone got any tips?
I'm a novice on much of these things
#2
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Door
Replace one of the top hinge screws which are screwed to the door jamb with a 2 1/2 or 3 inch deck screw. This will reach all the way to the framing and should solve your problem. Good luck with your project.
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I thought there might be a problem with using a much larger screw- but THANKS- you're right- it'll just go to the framing and provide even greater support.
Another question-- me and a friend framed my upstairs, about 900 sq. feet, and I got a chance to learn how to use the business end of a hammer.
We did a pretty good job until we got to the finishing of the doors- what a mess; only about 3 of the six doors shut well.
Professionals tell me I should probably take the whole door and frame out and start over- seems like a lot of trouble.
Thanks for your help!
Another question-- me and a friend framed my upstairs, about 900 sq. feet, and I got a chance to learn how to use the business end of a hammer.
We did a pretty good job until we got to the finishing of the doors- what a mess; only about 3 of the six doors shut well.
Professionals tell me I should probably take the whole door and frame out and start over- seems like a lot of trouble.
Thanks for your help!
#4
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Take a look at how the door fits into the jamb. The space between the door and jamb should be fairly even all the way around. If it isn't the door jamb is probably not plumb or square.
It's pretty easy to remove the door casing and the jamb. Using the door slab to keep the entire assemble square just replumb and square up the jambs.
It's pretty easy to remove the door casing and the jamb. Using the door slab to keep the entire assemble square just replumb and square up the jambs.
#5
You don't want a screw that's larger in diameter - just one that's longer.
Typically, a #8 screw fits a standard hinge. They're available in lengths up to 3-1/2"; three inch should be long enough.
The suggestion to use a deck screw was good. Most deck screws come with either a Torx (stardrive) or Robertson(square drive) head - much less likely to slip on installation.
You'll probably have to buy a 1# box, but they're handy to have around...
Typically, a #8 screw fits a standard hinge. They're available in lengths up to 3-1/2"; three inch should be long enough.
The suggestion to use a deck screw was good. Most deck screws come with either a Torx (stardrive) or Robertson(square drive) head - much less likely to slip on installation.
You'll probably have to buy a 1# box, but they're handy to have around...
#6
Whenever I had issues like this, and the 3" wood screws didn't help, I glued a penny or two to the underside of the hinge on the jam. This worked a few times...
