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how to cut an inside corner for chair rail other than 90 degree corners?

how to cut an inside corner for chair rail other than 90 degree corners?


  #1  
Old 02-12-08, 06:19 AM
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Question how to cut an inside corner for chair rail other than 90 degree corners?

hey friends

i know how to do inside corners for chair rail that are 90 degree corners...i push the long piece to the corner and the other piece is cut with a coping saw and its looks fine, but my question how i cut an inside corner for chair rail that is a 45 degree angle total? do i still push one of the pieces to the inside corner and cope the other one?...but how do i trace the piece i need to cope since i dont know how to hold it at the angle i want?

or do i cut each piece so they fit nicely together...for example a 45 degree inside would require each piece to be cut at 22.5 degee?...would this work for an inside corner of less than 90?

thanks
bam
 
  #2  
Old 02-12-08, 09:49 AM
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I quit coping most molding a long time ago. About the only time I do it now is when replacing a piece that was coped.

Now I measure the angle of the corner accurately with an adjustable angle finder and I cut the molding ends with a miter saw.

If your inside angle is something other than exactly 45* and you are using a miter box you may have a problem getting a tight joint. You could try cutting a couple of scraps at 22.5* to see how they fit.
 
  #3  
Old 02-12-08, 01:26 PM
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I cut and then nail one end into the corner, but DO NOT nail to the corner stud, then smear some wood glue onto the two pieces pieces that will make up the corner, PUSH into place and then nail the last piece. this allows the first piece to HANG ON to the last piece and float. Ususally this keeps the mitre tight, and if needed I caulk any gap that is between the wall and the trim. Some people like to cut a tad LONG and SPRING the last piece in to pressure fit the joint, but glueing works best for me. Like drywall corners, I like to float the first piece.

I have found too on corners that aren't SQUARE, and there are MANY I don't always try to use long pieces, but shorter ones, then out 16-32 inches I splice another piece in and finish the run. A bit of wood putty sanded and painted blends such in just fine.

Dale in Indy

P.S. It is often good to play with some scraps until you get your saw set where you want it. NO HARD FAST RULES APPLY.
 

Last edited by Smith Brother; 02-12-08 at 01:29 PM. Reason: ad a comment
  #4  
Old 02-12-08, 04:18 PM
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Seems to be several opinions, so here goes. I never miter inside corners, always cope. As suggested, there is no such thing as a perfect 90 deg joint, so cope. A coped joint will stay tighter, longer. A proper cope will usually fit better than a mitered joint, and you can tune it a perfect fit. If natural finish, the only way to get a tight joint.
 
  #5  
Old 02-12-08, 04:52 PM
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This is a doityourself site, NOT all are able to COPE and when you have but just a few to do, it isn't easy for many to get a GOOD cope. Pratice makes perfect, MAYBE......

A glued FLOATING mitre will remain as tight as a cope, IMO. Those that can cope should cope, but not all have the skills to do such. Also some trim pieces are MUCH harder to cope.

As Just Bill stated there are different ways to do a nice job, chose one that suits your skills. Have fun doing it too.


Dale in Indy
 

Last edited by Smith Brother; 02-12-08 at 05:31 PM. Reason: add a comment
 

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