unwarp my door

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Old 02-26-08, 10:44 AM
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unwarp my door

I have a solid wood door that warps in so that it doesn't close all the way

I don't want to replace it because it has a five panel design that I can't find anywhere

so how do I unwarp the door - or rewarp it back the other way


thanks
 
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Old 02-26-08, 12:46 PM
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How sure are you the door is warped, versus the door casing is out of whack? If you take it out, remove the hardware and lay it on the floor, you will be able to tell. If it is the door, then laying it on a flat surface with a 1" dowel at an angle opposite of the warp, then cinder blocks on the other opposite ends of the door may help bring it back. But, my guess is the frame needs attention. Throw up a level and check for plumb on both stiles. Bet one is out.
 
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Old 02-29-08, 08:14 PM
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finally got around to putting a level on the door frame. Both sides of the frame are level so it is definitely the door.

How long do the cinder blocks need to stay on the door?

Some one said something about wetting the door but I didn't get the whole story


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Old 03-01-08, 06:09 AM
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I have sometimes sprayed a door to hasten the movement, but you may want to just wait and choose a humid day to do it. You can probably get the correction you need in a day. It will be a touch an go project. Make sure you have something to check the straightness with once you release the block pressure in vertical and across the bias at an angle.
 
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Old 03-01-08, 02:24 PM
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How 'off' IS this door, anyway? When say the bottom contacts the jamb, how far away is the other end (or vice-versa)? You cannot pull it closed to latch?
 
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Old 03-03-08, 10:07 AM
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the door does not latch close - the front of the door meets the frame at the bottom and the top of the door is maybe 1/2" to and 1" open at the top

when we bought the house - the doors were off and in the basement = the seller was "repainting" them - when we moved in the doors were still off and this one was warped

LESSON #1 - always do a last minute walk thru before buying signing your name
 
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Old 03-03-08, 03:49 PM
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And you absolutely cannot make that door pull in enough to bend to have it latch? IF not, you may be able to get it to latch in stages by adjusting the catch outward so that you have to pull in real hard to get it to latch. Then, after some time (like weeks), then try adjusting the catch back inward some more. Do that over and over, over time.

What is odd is that in all the years I have been around housing, including ones from just past the mid 1800's, and that have been subjected to winters of 45 below zero and plus-100 degrees, or people who have steamed up houses with lots of showers and boiling food - I have never run into such a problem to SUCH a degree, that you absolutely cannot get it to close.

I would first make absolutely sure that ALL of the warp is in the door and not the jamb. I know you said you put a level on the jamb. But you would be surprised at what a fooler this can be. If one side of the jamb is off a little one way, and the other side of the jamb is off a hair the other way, it can add up. Or if you turn your level around and it is not perfectly accurate. To tell if it is all in the door use 2 strings to cross the door from corner to corner like a giant "X". If the strings touch in the middle where they cross each other, the door is on-plane. But if one string is way above the other, at the crossing point, then yes it is twisted out of plane. Double check this test by alternating which string is above the other. Also you can X-test the jambs in the same way.
 
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