Cutting a factory counter-top

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Old 04-03-08, 01:59 PM
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Cutting a factory counter-top

Hello From Biloxi, Ms. I have to install a factory made laminate counter-top and for some reason, cut and install around a 4" stand pipe. (Who would want this, I know)! Anyways, Is there a fool proof way to make the cut without chipping or really damaging the laminate? Any help or feedback would be greatly appreciated. Thank-You Blxriverrat
 
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Old 04-03-08, 02:16 PM
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Hi and welcome to the forums!

That is an unusual order

4" hole saw with fine teeth (bi-metal, maybe) in new condition.

Drill a small starter hole with a regular bit, so the hole saw shank will "sit still".

Fasten a wood block on the underside of the laminate, so the hole saw doesn't explode through the bottom of the countertop.
 

Last edited by connie; 04-03-08 at 02:17 PM. Reason: Sounds better!
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Old 04-03-08, 05:50 PM
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Thank-You Connie, But a hole saw won't work in this case. My fault, I didn't explain well enough. But welcome another response from you. See the stand pipe sits in the corner of a room about 6" off the wall from each wall. I need to get as close as possible to the pipe from one wall to the other, and possibly (don't know yet) re-attatch what i can behind the pipe. Its a Fire Dept. Stand pipe (or tree) thats already installed in a hotel.
 
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Old 04-03-08, 06:11 PM
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I am sorry, I do not know what a standpipe is

Can you box the pipe?
 
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Old 04-03-08, 06:27 PM
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Okay, Mister River Rat...I think you went for cookies and milk while I am waiting for you to answer me. It's all right...I don't have very good ideas after 9:00 PM.

Would you possibly be able to upload a photo? Use Picasa if you have a Google account, or photobucket works fine. Also, a picture of the counter and the dimension would be helpful.

Are you a carpenter by trade or just handy?

I'll check back in the morning for your reply.

Connie
 
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Old 04-03-08, 07:58 PM
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Smile Good Morning!

Sorry about the slow reply. Helping with homework. No, No pic, just need an idea or help on making a rounded cut without chipping or damaging the laminate. Maybe tape my cut line? What U think? Or a finetoothed jigsaw blade huh?
Let me pick your brain. Have you had ur coffee?
 
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Old 04-04-08, 02:01 AM
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Originally Posted by blxriverrat View Post
without chipping or damaging the laminate.
You want to grind/scratch through this brittle stuff, not cut. Beware of aggressively hooked teeth designed to grab material. So, though Connie's advice is real good as always, I'd like to qualify the hole saw - pick one without hooked teeth, it'll make a slightly cleaner entry.

Another way - use a router pegged on center. Just increment your depth very slightly each revolution.

Presumably this edge gets caulked anyway..?

As for the cutout, you might like to reattach, I reckon a Japanese plywood saw most expedient here, because it has a high density of teeth and the kerf is like 1/64" only. That's no more than the score line made by a laminate "knife". Of course the piece will fit nicely no matter how you make the cut.

Example saw
 
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Old 04-04-08, 02:34 AM
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Good morning Mr. Rat (and to you, too, Kobuchi!)

Has the night's sleep made me smarter? No, I'm afraid, not.

Kobuchi's suggestion to use a router is a good one. (I did not think of that...probably because mine sits quietly in a dark, dusty cabinet, unused, forgotten...so tragic!)

I have taped a line to cut laminate without splintering, but a circle would be difficult, I think.

Is it possible-I ask you both to lay the shape of the cut, for example, a plastic coffee can lid, and use heat, as from a soldering gun to cut through the surface, then finish the cut with the hole saw?

I still cannot envision how the counter fits against or around the pipe! Would you then cut a straight line through the counter, dissecting your newly made hole as you go? Put the smaller cut section in first, then the larger section. Join below with counter bolts?

Is the counter atop cabinets? How do the cabinets fit around the pipe?
 
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Old 04-04-08, 05:32 AM
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Counter Top

Your idea of using a jig saw is OK if you have room to turn the saw as you cut.
I would suggest two separate kinds of cuts: First, a cut with a hole saw as previouly suggested at the exact location of the pipe; then two straight cuts perpendicular to the wall and to the outer limits of the hole. This will leave a corner piece which can be re-installed behind the pipe.
Hope this helps.
 
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Old 04-04-08, 07:18 AM
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They do make jig saw blades that cut on the downstroke, if you need to cut from the top.
 
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Old 04-04-08, 10:22 AM
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Much Thanks!

Thanks to all of you. All great ideas. Just what I was after. I definately will let all of you know Monday evening how everything turned out. Connie, I will try to remember to take my camera with and post a pic for you. Thanks again, All of you. Be Safe. Bobby
 
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