My router is splitting my nice moldings... help!

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Old 12-24-08, 12:05 PM
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Exclamation My router is splitting my nice moldings... help!

Hi,
I'm trying to make nice trims on a 1 1/2" x 4' oak molding but my router keeps splitting the molding along the cut... I'm not sure what I am doing wrong.

Here's a drawing that illustrates the profile of my molding. Basically, I did the small top trim first, then I tried to make the bottom trim. That's when the whole thing split.



Is my router not spinning fast enough? (I have the DeWalt 621 and I set the speed to it's lowest).
The bit I used for the last cut is a 1/2" bit, set to cut down 1/4" into the wood and down 1/4" also.

I am not using a router table.

Can anybody give me tips?

Cheers!
f.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 01:49 PM
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Router

Do not make the full cut in one pass. Make 2 or 3 progressively deeper cuts to get to the depth you want.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 01:58 PM
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No router Pro or anything...but would it be better to make the square cut first?
And doesn't the speed depend on the wood and bit?
Pro's? Experts? People who know more than me? Anyone?
 
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Old 12-24-08, 03:46 PM
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I'm with gunguy; I would make the square cut first.
 
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Old 12-24-08, 09:07 PM
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Looks like a big notch to do in one pass with a router. I'd do it in several passes, like Wirepuller mentioned. And use featherboards on the top and side to keep the wood from chattering.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 03:25 PM
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The square part, I would cut with a dado blade, or two opposing cuts with a table saw. Then the cove part can be cut with your router bit. But the other recommendations are right on with the multiple passes. Router bits aren't made to cut more than 1/4 inch at a time without deflection. Some may disagree, but I don't have snipes, either.
 
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Old 12-25-08, 09:13 PM
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You can cut that bottom rectangular section out with a router bit. As mentioned before, make it in 2-3 passes(the depth). Also, if that is say 3/4" wide then you need to use a bit that is 1". If you are using a 3/4" bit to make a 3/4" dado, then the edge won't be cut cleanly. If you are using a 3/4" bit and can adjust the cut to say 11/16, the bit will be on the outside of the wood thus helping with the splintering issue.

Also as mentioned a router table with featherboards works very well. I made one out of 3/4" plywood with a 1x2 frame underneath for stability. Made the fence out of some 1" thick by 4" pine I had laying around. 2 pcs in an L shape, just make sure they are straight. Table and straight edge are about 4' in length. 1 featherboard to hold the stock against the fence and 1 to hold it down against the table. Secure the fence with clamps.
 
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Old 12-28-08, 01:51 PM
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Cool

Agree with Chandler; cut dado with table saw and dado blade. Cut cove with router(prefer with router table). No one asked if you are routing from left to right or otherwise. Bit turns clockwise so routing should start on the left. Also a sacrificial piece of wood at the end will keep the work from splintering. 1/4 x 1/4 is not a large cut but it will go better if you make two passes. Good luck! (Keep those fingers clear!!!)
 
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Old 01-26-09, 07:03 PM
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Smile Router problems P.s make sure your router bit is sharp

Hi are you starting your router right on the end ,if so start your router about a 1/4 to 1/2 away from end and start from right to left .once finish back up with the router and go right to left slow into the 1/4in or 1/2in . Hope that works for you . Also start on sides first an do the ends last .
 
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Old 01-27-09, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rsmith200 View Post
Hi are you starting your router right on the end ,if so start your router about a 1/4 to 1/2 away from end and start from right to left .once finish back up with the router and go right to left slow into the 1/4in or 1/2in . Hope that works for you . Also start on sides first an do the ends last .
If using a table then cuts should start from right to left. If using router freehand, then cuts should start from left to right!!
 
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Old 01-28-09, 08:54 AM
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Hmmm and I thought you always did endgrain cuts first, since they are more likely to chip out at the end of the wood? Then the side cuts will remove any damage?
 
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Old 01-28-09, 01:18 PM
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On my machines the cut must be supported or the heads will snap it. I think cut the large rabbit first, support the molding under the cut and then cut the cove. Hope this helps.
 
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Old 01-31-09, 12:50 PM
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Smile

Originally Posted by Gunguy45 View Post
Hmmm and I thought you always did endgrain cuts first, since they are more likely to chip out at the end of the wood? Then the side cuts will remove any damage?
Right on Gunguy but he didn't have any end grain cuts that I saw. Just top cove and bottom rabbit.
 
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