refinishing w/ stain and polyurethane combo

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Old 04-27-09, 06:33 AM
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refinishing w/ stain and polyurethane combo

I am re-finishing a table, successfully stripped the original finish and sanded. Am applying the new finish, a stain and polyurethane combo product...the new finish shows horrible brush strokes....how do I apply the product to get an even finish without the brush marks?

any help is appreciated.
 
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Old 04-27-09, 02:37 PM
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Welcome to the forums!

Tinted polys are great for altering the color of an already sealed piece but are a poor choice for raw wood. Tinted polys [like minwax polyshades] must be applied evenly! Spraying is usually the best way to control the colored poly. When brushing, extra care must be used to not have any lap marks, missed spots, drips, etc. A seperate stain and then clear poly is a better method.

I'd suggest sanding it down and seeing how it looks. After sanding, wipe the wood down with a wet thinner rag. While the wood is wet with thinner - that's what it will look like with a coat of clear poly applied. If it still looks bad you may need to strip off what you have already done and start over
 
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Old 04-29-09, 10:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mlegardeur View Post
I am re-finishing a table, successfully stripped the original finish and sanded. Am applying the new finish, a stain and polyurethane combo product...the new finish shows horrible brush strokes....how do I apply the product to get an even finish without the brush marks? any help is appreciated.
Throw it out its should be outlawed. As a contractor for over 30 years I tried it years ago and caught it in time ( didn't feel right going on ) I saved a piece while wet with mineral spirits on the piece but as a but dark.

Sorry need to start over!!>>..... Do this..

Just sand down the table. You may end up retouching it with a stain because when you sand more in the dark black areas it will be a lot lighter then the aged areas not sanded as much. The "yellow" look isn't just the wood. Its also UV light yellowing that table.

I am old fashion I like to use a regular stain and not that combined stain/ sealer it gets sticky and I don't like to cut it down with spirits The best sealer like to use is a mimwax spar urethane. .To prep sand the table down real smooth and wipe down. To stain I like to use a rag or old sock to stain with and no brush (stain Only) so I can control the excess stain and not darken the wood to much. ( I like to see my wood grain) I hate brush on or sponge on staining.) After this let it dry and NOT out in the sun wood will warp badly. Now the stain will raise the grain. After completely dry use very fine grit sand paper and lightly "hand" sand down the raised grain enough to smooth it real good but not to much to get past the stain. wipe off good.

I go back over that with 00 steel wool. Wipe off and then use a tack rag from the paint supplier and tack the wood to get all of the wood fibers an micro dust off ( real important).

Apply your sealer ( spar urethane ) and coat the wood with a good brush and smooth out good but don't go to heavy. ( cut this down with spirits if it feels to thick and hard to brush out but not to much dulls the gloss finish) Let dry overnight Lightly sand this coat wipe down then use the sticky tack cloth to clean it.

The last coat, You might have to thin a little for the sealer to go on smooth and a full wet slick look, don't go to heavy. If this finial coat suits you good, if not do another finish coat after waiting 24 hrs. I'm old fashion. I like just a stain with no sealer in it. And for finish I like an exterior spar urethane finish semi gloss or high gloss. It is also good for salt areas and on boats.

NOTE": Pour some sealer in another small container as you go so you don't get contaminates the original can with particles be picked up from any dust the tacking missed. This way you still have a fresh dirt free can. Clean brush real good between sealing coats ( Dust again)

Also don't SHAKE the can. Its not a Margarita, any bubbles that gets in it from shaking the can will be your enemy, Stir only.

I'm an avid boater and I use this on the wood in and on my boat. Its even salt resistance.

Minwax® Helmsman Spar Urethane - Oil-Based Clear Protective Finishes - Minwax.com

So list is

Medium sandpaper
fine grit
very fine grit
00 steel wool
Tack rags ( they are in the sealer section )
Good oil brush
1 can Minwax
Mineral spirits
 
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Old 04-30-09, 03:44 AM
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While I like helmsman for exterior doors, IMO it isn't a great choice for interior wood. Spar poly/varnish is formulated for weather and doesn't dry as hard as the regular interior poly = more likely to get scratched than interior poly.
 
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