How to cut this?

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Old 07-22-09, 07:36 PM
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How to cut this?

Not quite sure how to explain this so bear with me. I'm flooring in an attic. The boards lay across the joists, and then they also attach to a 2x at the header against the wall. The problem is that in some parts, the wall goes to adjoining interior space, and under that wall the floor boards from the interior room sticks out into this room too much. So along those areas, the attic boards have nowhere to attach to along the edges.

What I want to do is cut this extra little floor board out (3/4" plywood) that sticks out at the bottom of those walls. I'd need some sort of mini circular saw like 2" or 3" in diameter, that would attach to a drill or something, so that I could get it right up against that wall. They might have a Dremel attachment for this, and I have seen some newer tiny vibrating minisaws that might do this. But I don't want to spend $100 on a tool to do it. Is there a cheaper way? Some cheap attachment, or some clever way to do by hand?
 
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Old 07-22-09, 07:55 PM
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a reciprocating saw with a long blade would probably do it, although the cut might be at a bit of an angle. Be sure you don't cut into any wires below. You can bend those long blades and still make a decent cut with them. Just pretend you're a sculptor.

If you want a hand saw, an offset dovetail saw has an offset handle, and will lay flat against the wall and cut them flush. They are about $10-15.

A pull saw has a thin, flexible blade, and would also work well if you had a few boards sticking out. I wouldn't want to cut 20 ft worth with it though. LOL As the name indicates, it cuts on the pull stroke. About $20 in stores.
 
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Old 07-22-09, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by XSleeper View Post
a reciprocating saw with a long blade would probably do it, although the cut might be at a bit of an angle.
I think I wasn't clear. Underneath the overlapping floor boards I want to cut is solid wood. That's the wood I want to screw my attic floor boards to. So a recip saw ain't gonna cut it, so to speak. It might be possible, but ugly and maybe dangerous. A saw can't be angled when there's solid wood below.

A circular saw would work with respect to the depth, but of course I can't get a circular saw blade right up against it. Is there some mini saw blade I could install on a grinder, or something?
 
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Old 07-22-09, 08:24 PM
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sounds like a good excuse to buy one of these

Multi-Max? / Model: Multi-Max

or these if you have a few more $$$

FEIN Power Tools Inc. - FEIN MULTIMASTER - The universal system for interior work and renovation.
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Old 07-22-09, 08:31 PM
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Yeah, he already said he didn't want to pay $100 for one of the oscillating tools. And even with the Fein, you'd burn up a $20 blade in about 5'.

If you have a little experience with a reciprocating saw, you can easily do that with a reciprocating saw. The experience helps you to know not to cut too deep.

Don't know about the dangerous part. Unless you're putting your nose in front of the blade. LOL And as far as ugly goes, I suppose you would chalk an ugly cut up to inexperience as well.

I guess my advice would be to get a 12" blade... have a tight grip on the saw, keep your nose out of the way, and be aware enough to not cut too deep. You cut with only the tip of the saw... front 3" or so... bend the rest of the blade away from the wall slightly, keep the axis of the saw plumb, and have the saw handle as low to the floor as possible so that you're cutting at a low angle, thus sawing through the top layers of plywood only, and not cutting too deep into the subfloor on the first pass. If you didn't cut deep enough on the first pass, you can cut deeper on the next one, you know. If you have variable speed, cut slowly if you need the control.

You could also go rent a toe kick saw, which is used in the trades to do just such a thing.

Otherwise, plan on working up a sweat with that offset dovetail saw I mentioned.
 
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Old 07-22-09, 09:44 PM
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As XSleeper said, but cheaper: Harbor Freight Tools I hope you at least double the floor joists in the attic area as usually the builders space the joists more over the attic than over the living space. Be safe, G
 
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Old 07-23-09, 05:11 AM
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Originally Posted by GBR in WA View Post
I hope you at least double the floor joists in the attic area as usually the builders space the joists more over the attic than over the living space. Be safe, G
In this case, they are 12" OC! Not sure why, although it's a big span (2 car garage).

Thanks for the tips guys, I will probably try out the recip saw idea, and if it doesn't go well (I was concerned about the pounding as the saw bottoms out on solid wood beneath) there is always one more Harbor Freight tool to add to my arsenal! That tool looks exactly like what's needed.
 
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Old 07-23-09, 12:53 PM
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Attic boards

You dont run the blade perpendicular, about a 30 degree angle.
 
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Old 07-23-09, 02:38 PM
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They are spaced that close to carry themselves and the ceiling material. The builder only put in the minimum joists required to pass inspection. What size are the attic joists? what is the joist span? What species of lumber is on the side stamp of a joist? OR... someone paid extra for the joists to install the floor/increase living space later? Be safe, G
 
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Old 07-23-09, 04:23 PM
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Originally Posted by retired wrench View Post
You dont run the blade perpendicular, about a 30 degree angle.
Right. Like I mentioned earlier, You cut with only the tip of the saw... front 3" or so...

...and have the saw handle as low to the floor as possible so that you're cutting at a low angle.
 
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Old 07-23-09, 05:07 PM
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How about $40? - Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Ooops! Missed that this was already linked. Carry on!
 

Last edited by Tolyn Ironhand; 07-23-09 at 05:09 PM. Reason: cuz I'm a dope
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Old 07-23-09, 06:29 PM
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They're 2x10 spanning about 20 feet. I haven't noticed any markings on the lumber but it's obviuosly some sort of pine. There was no ceiling there when the house was finished.
 
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