Need help on Crown Molding on inset Trey Ceiling

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Old 01-29-10, 07:02 PM
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Need help on Crown Molding on inset Trey Ceiling

Need help on Crown Molding on inset Trey Ceiling

I am used to installing crown molding on flat drywall.

However my current customer would like me to install crown molding at the top of her (recessed) trey ceiling (where trey meets ceiling).
Obviously where the cust wants the molding installed presents a third angle. I am not sure my miter (mitre) saw can accommodate this but perhaps there are some tricks.

Also trey is not 100% straight-a bit wavy in parts.

Appreciate any help.

Sincerely

Peter
 
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Old 01-29-10, 07:07 PM
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Hi Peter, I'm not sure I understand the problem, nor the 3rd angle. Are the sides of the trey beams at an angle? Will the top of the crown be nailed to the side of the trey and also to the ceiling? Or will it be below the ceiling, as for indirect lighting behind the crown?

And is it painted or stained? Pictures?
 
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Old 01-29-10, 07:12 PM
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I posted a pic...thanks
http://www.peterbio.com/towelbar/corner1.jpg

Black marks show where crown molding would go..

Appreciate it.
Peter
 
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Old 01-29-10, 07:23 PM
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Thanks- much clearer now!

Yeah that won't be much of a problem. The one thing you will want to do since the wall is at an angle, is rip a slight corner off the back side of the crown where it meets the wall. You won't be changing the flat reveal at all on the bottom edge, but you will need to cut off the back side of the crown so that the bottom edge of the moulding can fit back tight against the wall. It looks like maybe you'd run it through the table saw (face of the crown toward the fence, bottom edge of the crown toward the table) and cut a 15 degree angle or so off the back side (bottom left corner of the crown moulding as it sits on the table saw). When you go to cut the crown moulding on the miter saw, this won't affect how it sits, provided you are cutting the crown "in position", or upside down and backwards. If you are cutting it on the flat, you might have trouble keeping the crown from rocking as you cut- if so, you'd probably want to rip this angle AFTER you have made your miter cuts.

As for the layout, you'll probably want to determine the exact rise and run of your crown moulding, measure down from the ceiling the exact rise, level back from that point to the wall to determine where the bottom edge of the crown will be, take a scrap of moulding and set it in the corner- lining up the bottom edge of the crown with the mark you just made on the wall, mark the top edge of the crown on the ceiling, and do that in each corner, then snap a straight chalk line on the ceiling and try to follow that, since that will likely be more visible from the floor. (A chalk line on the wall would probably be optional, unless you would rather have that be perfectly straight and then you'd float the ceiling. But if the wall is wavy and the ceiling is flat you'd be better luck following a straight line on the ceiling.) Then just roll it up tight against the wall and nail it. If there are gaps here and there along the bottom of the crown due to a wavy wall, float it with joint compound to make the wall straight with the crown. Then caulk the edges, assuming it is painted.

In the pic, it looks like the ceiling is flat, which is good. If it's got popcorn texture, you'll need to scrape it down where the crown moulding will be sitting.
 

Last edited by XSleeper; 01-29-10 at 07:39 PM.
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Old 01-30-10, 01:39 PM
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Maybe this illustration will help.

http://s231.photobucket.com/albums/e...t=Project1.jpg

If the profile of crown moulding won't allow this, you can always put fence on the left side of the table saw blade. First place a sacrificial 1x4 on the right side of the fence so that you can run the flat side (back side) of the crown moulding against it.
 
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