Q on leveling an existing wavy ceiling
#1
Q on leveling an existing wavy ceiling
This is for my northern Michigan vacation cottage living room. What's a good way to install a new ceiling over wavy joists? Just guessing but there's maybe a total high/low of an inch. My ceiling is right at 8 feet and it's just 1/4" paneling on those joists, with foil-faced insulation laying on the back side. The walls in the living room are the same (the rest of the cottage is log cabin). This low-buck construction is very common there and lasts longer than drywall which often cracks in the winter when the cottages are shut down.
But I want a stronger, nicer looking ceiling so I was considering T&G V-grooved pine or bead board. I suspect that even with the lines in the wood to visually break up the long ceiling expanse (27x19) I will still be able to see the waves telegraph through. Another option I'm considering is a coffered ceiling but that might be a bit over the top for a cottage, and a lot of work.
Any suggestions how I can get a flat-looking ceiling without breaking the bank or my back?
But I want a stronger, nicer looking ceiling so I was considering T&G V-grooved pine or bead board. I suspect that even with the lines in the wood to visually break up the long ceiling expanse (27x19) I will still be able to see the waves telegraph through. Another option I'm considering is a coffered ceiling but that might be a bit over the top for a cottage, and a lot of work.
Any suggestions how I can get a flat-looking ceiling without breaking the bank or my back?
#2
Group Moderator
Shim out the joists to make the underside straight. Simple/straight forward task but not necessarily quick or easy.
#3
2 issues come to mind:
1 - the insulation was put in before the paneling so it's stapled to the joists. Sistering new joists (not sure if that's what you meant by shimming the joists) would mean pulling down the insulation--along with 40 years of whatever might be found in/on it. Did I mention there's also vermiculite up there? Maybe not in the addition (living room), but for sure there is in the original attic space. I'm motivated to find a way that doesn't disturb this possible carcinogen.
2 - How do I determine "straight" if I do try to make it perfect rather than hide it?
1 - the insulation was put in before the paneling so it's stapled to the joists. Sistering new joists (not sure if that's what you meant by shimming the joists) would mean pulling down the insulation--along with 40 years of whatever might be found in/on it. Did I mention there's also vermiculite up there? Maybe not in the addition (living room), but for sure there is in the original attic space. I'm motivated to find a way that doesn't disturb this possible carcinogen.
2 - How do I determine "straight" if I do try to make it perfect rather than hide it?
#4
Group Moderator
OK, shim under the paneling that's there now. A laser level would help you find the lowest spot and shim exactly to that point everywhere else.
You'll just need to use extra long screws on the new drywall to make sure you hit structure.
You'll just need to use extra long screws on the new drywall to make sure you hit structure.
#5
Forum Topic Moderator
Either a laser level or a long straight edge will help with getting it all fairly even. Plywood strips make for good shims although if the joists themselves are wavy, it might be better to sister a 2x along the existing. Mitch is thinking drywall but the same is true for a wood ceiling, make sure the nails are long enough to hit the rafter, not just the shim.
#7
Group Moderator
Yeah, sorry - wood, not drywall. That said, my process for the ceiling 'leveling' remains the same other than long nails instead of long screws.
#8
I like the idea of furring perpendicular to the joists. This would allow me to run the planks the same direction as the joists (long dimension of the room), plus not disturb the existing insulation. Installing the T&G should go quicker being able to see the nailers, too. A big downside to this plan though is losing almost 3" of ceiling height, which already feels low because it's dark & big.
Would there be any advantage to putting 3/4 foam board between the strapping...or does the "thermal bridge" of the wide strips negate any gain?
Would there be any advantage to putting 3/4 foam board between the strapping...or does the "thermal bridge" of the wide strips negate any gain?
#9
Where do you get 3" from? You'll have 3/4" for the strapping and 3/4" for the T&G. That's 1 1/2".
On further thought, you might be able to skip the strapping and fur out the T&G as you go.
On further thought, you might be able to skip the strapping and fur out the T&G as you go.
#10
Originally Posted by drooplug
Where do you get 3" from? You'll have 3/4" for the strapping and 3/4" for the T&G. That's 1 1/2"
#17
It's not hopeless, but you will have to give something up to get it. What's more important, being flat, or not losing 3" of ceiling height? You have placed quite a few restrictions on your project. There isn't anything wrong with that, but it does make achieving your goal with the ceiling more difficult.