Transition from skirt board to base board...advice?

I am installing new 3 1/4" base and I would like to refinish/reuse the existing skirt board...the problem is that the original skirt board only extends up enough for the original base which was about half as tall. Also, the skirt board is 3/4" thick and the base is only 1/2" thick. So, I'm unsure how to make the transition look decent.

Here is an example shot of the new base next to the skirt board:



Should I cut down the top of the skirt board and extend the base out over the skirt board? But then you'll see the end profile of the base....

I appreciate any help!

 

You can notch your base to where it terminates on top of the skirt and do a return on the base 1/4" short of where it turns to go down the stairs. The difference in depth is not a problem.

 

What's the plans for the finished flooring?

 

The finished floor will be carpet on the landing and stairs.

Thanks chandler, I understand what you mean. What if I cut the skirt down to the bottom of the base, then just extend the base out and do a return? Basically like you said, but without notching the base.



The benefit I see is that the difference in depth wouldn't be as noticeable, but maybe this would extend the base too far out over the step?

 

Most of the ones I've painted died right into the skirt but usually the skirt came to a point which brought the height closer to being the same. I wonder if it would be feasible to add a triangle piece of 1x to the end of the skirt board ??

Is the skirt going to be painted to match the base?

 

Mark, what you described you are use to is exactly what it was when the original base was shorter. I initially had the same thought as you: add a triangle piece. Just by eyeballing the picture, I still think I would be a bit short by adding the triangle piece...perhaps a more complex patch piece would work:



Everything will be painted semi-gloss white, so adding a patch and then smoothing out with some spackle before paint would make the skirt look like once piece.

 

I wouldn't add a complicated piece like in your drawing, if I did add to the skirt board it would just be to bring it up to where it would have been had it not been cut off. IMO the top of the base and skirt doesn't have to be perfect, you could just nip the top corner of the base. I doubt anyone will notice once it's all painted.

 

I'm mainly a trim carpenter and would do it similar to what you have drawn... but you could eliminate the "notch" if you would cut the existing skirt level and flush with the subfloor. Whatever you do you will need a tight joint that will be glued, then you will need to fill and sand the joint so that it's smooth and disappears once painted.

The skirt generally continues to a point flush or just above the base, and is flat on the top for an inch or so, just as you have drawn.

 

Thanks, sleeper. I think I'll go that route. I may just go with what I drew and cut the "notch" just so I won't have to worry about cutting the skirt while it is installed (I could see myself gouging the wall somehow). Some glue, filler and sanding and I'll be good to go!

 

No problem. Don't use spackle for your filler. Use wood glue for your joint so that your transition can't expand and contract and crack at the joint... get the faces of both pieces as flush as you can (shim behind your transition piece if the skirt is fractionally thicker) and use a latex wood putty that is sandable to fill any cracks that are left.

 

Thanks for the advice. Do you recommend using the putty for filling nail holes on the trim as well? I guess the spackle should be saved for strictly drywall work?

 

No, the latex wood putty I would strictly use for smoothing out your cracks and the transition between the 2 pieces of trim, since it is a sandable putty you will be able to feather it with a piece of 120/150 sandpaper wrapped around a block of wood. Unless you want to go around sanding every nail hole you fill, I would not recommend you use it on all your nail holes. A painters putty would be a much better choice as you can form it into a point, poke it into the hole and then give it a rub with your finger to smooth it and wipe away any excess, and it won't shrink or need to be sanded. Caulking can shrink into the hole, while spackle will sometimes dimple inward once you go over it with a paint brush, generally because it's light and fluffy and the hole wasn't completely filled in the first place. Spackle is fine for small drywall touchups.

The wood filler would do a really good job of filling the holes... it's just too much labor for what it's worth. If you are really OCD and absolutely don't want to see any nail holes, filling with wood putty, sanding, re-filling any spots you missed, sanding again... would be a sure fire way to completely hide your nail holes... but you could also run the risk of not sanding them good enough and having a hump at every hole, which would show up in the sheen of the paint after you paint them, and it's practically impossible to sand down once it's painted. So yeah... probably don't fill all your holes with it.

 

Great! Just the info I needed.

This might deserve another thread, but I have one more question for you since you know what you are talking about...I am starting with the primed mdf base and my planned process is to paint, then cut & install, caulk & fill holes, then come back with touch up before carpet (and then touch anything up if the carpet installer marks/scuffs). How does that sound? I've read about people doing 1 coat before install and one coat after, but that sounds like more work. I guess I would have to come back through and paint all the caulk, so an entire coat wouldn't be much more.

Thanks again!

 

As X mentioned, use painter's putty for all the nail holes, spackling can shrink or fall out and caulking does shrink [should never be used as a filler!] I always caulk and putty prior to applying the finish coat. It's commonplace to have to come back and touch up the base after carpet install but that is easier/quicker than applying a full coat of enamel after the carpet is laid. While enamel doesn't touch up great, I've never had it to be noticeable on base board.

 

Thanks, Mark. Do you typically have to come back through with the wall paint after the trim is installed? I'm thinking about the caulking between the top of the base and the wall...I guess if you keep caulking to a minimum and are neat with it then it wouldn't be necessary to come back in with the wall paint?

 

IMO, half the caulk will be on the wall, and half on the trim, so I would brush the trim and caulking with the trim paint first... some of that paint will get on the wall, but then come back later with the wall paint and cut a straight line on the wall above the top of the trim.

It's kind of hard to do it the other way around because the top ledge of the baseboard is so thin. But Mark is the painter, listen to him.

 

When I paint a room I normally paint the ceiling first, then enamel window and door trim, then the walls and paint the baseboard last. To me it would be easier to touch up the wall first and then paint the base ..... but whatever works for you is fine.
Irregardless of any rumors - there ain't no paint police

 

Thanks! You guys are awesome!