Epoxy resin substitute for hand made pong table.
#1
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Epoxy resin substitute for hand made pong table.
Hello all!
I am making a beer pong table out of painted ply wood, with either paper or plastic decals of my school's logo on top. I want to use something to create a waterproof, smooth finish on top that will protect the table and the decals. My first thought was to use epoxy resin but after doing some research I have found this is both hard to do, and quite expensive.
What would be the best alternative product to use to finish my table?
I have thought about varnish or shellac, but I am unsure if this will provide the smooth protective coating I am looking for, because it will be applied with a brush.
The table is 7 feet long by 2 feet wide, and I would like to keep the clear finish somewhere in the $10-$35 range as far as price.
Thanks for the help!!
I am making a beer pong table out of painted ply wood, with either paper or plastic decals of my school's logo on top. I want to use something to create a waterproof, smooth finish on top that will protect the table and the decals. My first thought was to use epoxy resin but after doing some research I have found this is both hard to do, and quite expensive.
What would be the best alternative product to use to finish my table?
I have thought about varnish or shellac, but I am unsure if this will provide the smooth protective coating I am looking for, because it will be applied with a brush.
The table is 7 feet long by 2 feet wide, and I would like to keep the clear finish somewhere in the $10-$35 range as far as price.
Thanks for the help!!
#3
Since you are incorporating paper and decals, "decoupage" comes to mind. Haven't thought about that since elementary school.
#4
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Would it be possible to pour on the Polyurethane? If not, is there an alternative that I could pour on?
I am worried I will never be able to get a smooth surface if I have to brush or roll the finish on.
I am worried I will never be able to get a smooth surface if I have to brush or roll the finish on.
#5
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Polys can't be poured on - they won't dry/cure correctly if applied too thick. You can add a little of Flood's Floetrol or XIM's Extendz to water based coatings to slow down the drying time which helps the coating to flow together better, reducing brush marks. Using the a quality brush [or the right short nap roller cover] will also help. Sanding between coats both promotes good adhesion and eliminates or reduces brush marks and/or roller stipple.