Should I re-use this baseboard, or buy new?
#1
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Should I re-use this baseboard, or buy new?
I removed all of the baseboard trim for drywall and flooring work. It all came off pretty easy, with very little damage. I was going to replace it, but I was thinking it might save me time and/or money if I filled the holes, repainted it, then re-installed it, since it's already cut to size. If I do buy new I can borrow a miter saw, so that's not a cost to be factored.
What would you do?
What would you do?
#2
Unless you boogered it up, reuse it. You would have to fill and touch up new lumber, not to mention priming and painting new trim. Of course you numbered it as you removed it, so putting it back in the same order will be a snap.
#4
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Do you know what type of paint is on the baseboards? http://www.doityourself.com/forum/pa...latex-oil.html
If it's oil base enamel and you wish to switch to latex, priming them before installation will save you some time.
If it's oil base enamel and you wish to switch to latex, priming them before installation will save you some time.
#6
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Personally, if you're going white, I would use latex (or waterborne) enamel paint - oil based paint can yellow with age and therefore I don't use white oil based paint. If you think it's oil based and want to put on latex paint, you would need an oil based primer first.
#9
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Part of it is experience with using the brush properly but using a quality brush that is the right one for the coating being applied along with the proper consistency for the drying conditions also plays a part. Sometimes thinning the paint a little is all that is needed to make the paint flow together better. Sanding between coats will eliminate or at least reduce the brush marks along with promoting good adhesion.
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Sounds good. I have a pro painter friend who's helping me paint it, so I'm sure he knows some tricks as well.
I pulled all the finish nails out of the trim last night with very good results, so I think re-using this is definitely the way to go.
I pulled all the finish nails out of the trim last night with very good results, so I think re-using this is definitely the way to go.
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JOE i am probably a day late and a dollar short........the best way to denail and reuse trim with finish nails is to pull them out from the back side. use large CHANNELLOCK Pliers pulling back on the round edge.
IMHO YMMV
IMHO YMMV
#12
Time out. Is this MDF? You may break more pieces than install them, so be careful. I note it is on a concrete floor. Hopefully a shop floor and it will be installed above grade. MDF does not play well with basements for some reason.
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That's exactly what I did John, though I only had needlenose pliers. I just used the side, so as to maximize the area contacting the MDF when applying leverage.
Chandler, it is MDF, but I was successful in removing all the finishing nails. There should be some type of putty or compound I can use to fill dents and sand before painting these, right?
Chandler, it is MDF, but I was successful in removing all the finishing nails. There should be some type of putty or compound I can use to fill dents and sand before painting these, right?
#15
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Ya, we don't let Larry do any painting
The correct use of putty and caulk can do a lot for making rough woodwork look nice. Usually all that is needed for a regular nail hole is to twist some painter's putty into the hole and level it off with your thumb but larger holes fare better if you dress off the putty with a putty knife. Minor dents don't always putty well but you can use spackling for those areas. It's best to limit the use of spackling as it's prone to pop off if hit hard.
The correct use of putty and caulk can do a lot for making rough woodwork look nice. Usually all that is needed for a regular nail hole is to twist some painter's putty into the hole and level it off with your thumb but larger holes fare better if you dress off the putty with a putty knife. Minor dents don't always putty well but you can use spackling for those areas. It's best to limit the use of spackling as it's prone to pop off if hit hard.
#16
I did work in a house where they used floetrol in the paint so they didn't leave any brush marks. Worked great. Too bad they left all the mill marks and tear out in the wood when they painted it.
#18
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Flood's Floetrol and XIM's Extendz slow down the drying time of latex paints so they have a better chance of flowing together eliminating or reducing brush marks. It basically does the same thing that Penetrol does for oil base coatings. Using water [or paint thinner] to thin paint more or less does the same thing but these products don't reduce the thickness of paint any.