Tongue and Groove Ceiling question

Hello, I am new to this forum and had a question regarding T&G paneling for a ceiling. Hopefully I am posting this in the best spot.

I am looking to put up T&G on my kitchen ceiling. I more than likely will be going with a 1x6 but was also considering a 1x4 but am worried it might look small. The room is about 18'x11'.

My main question is regarding the length of boards. Am I risking warping by going with full length boards? 18's or 20's? I would assume it will obviously be a little harder to work with but like the look (and simplicity) of not having joints. I had read somewhere a while back that the longer lengths could be more susceptible to warping, is this true?

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Good morning offroad and welcome to the forum.
Not the right person for your question, but T&G caught my eye. In most cases there needs to be a rigid air barrier above that type of ceiling, not just plastic. Many homes with T&G experience high air leakage and moisture issues. I'd have to know more about where this ceiling is and what is above it but in most cases installing the drywall first, tape and mud to seal, works fine.

Bud

 

Are you applying this T&G over existing sheetrock? If so, you should not have the problems mentioned by Bud, but if a raw installation, you will need the barrier. The longer the length, the more unwieldy it will be. If you are doing this by yourself, then shorter pieces, although seams are inevitable, would be best. I have never had any substantial warpage with 6" T&G. You will possibly encounter some shrinkage if you don't acclimate the wood properly.

We did this one over sheetrock, using 2 1/2" finish nails through the tongue and into rafters. Good solid fit using 12' lumber.

 

You'll save your self some time and effort if you stain [or not] and apply 2 coats of poly [sanding between the coats] prior to installation. It's lot easier/quicker to finish the wood on saw horses!

With the exception of some beadboard T&G almost all the T&G ceilings I've finished have been 1x6s. IMO the joints are acceptable as long as they are tight. My youngest son's house has flat ceilings but has T&G like Larry pictured.

 

I agree on finishing while down. These were stained and lacquered in a paint shop prior to my taking possession for installation. Marksr KNOWS I don't paint

 

I forgot to mention If brushing on the poly it is very important to make sure you don't get much poly [no drips or runs] on the tongue and the groove as excess poly there can make it hard to fit the pieces together The fix is simple, just sand or scrape off the excess poly but it's better not to have to stop and do that

IMO it's best to apply the final coat of poly after installation. That way any nail holes that show can be puttied up and sealed over along with fixing any scars in the finish that may have happened during installation .... and I'm not picking on you Larry

 

SCARS ??!! Hmmphf We don't leave no stinkin' scars. In a pig's eye. Painters always make us look good. Good advice on the last coat, too.

 

Thanks for all the help so far. To answer a couple questions, the T&G ceiling will be going in the kitchen over existing sheetrock. I will be at minimum painting the backside to seal it before it goes up and will probably do the final coat after its up.

So, I saw one answer there regarding the board lengths that the longer lengths like 18's will probably be harder to work with. If I am finish nailing through the tongue ever 16", would it still be doable to get a good finished product with the longer boards? Or would it just be too hard, and easier to go with the shorter boards?

Last question, if I do go with the shorter boards how do must people plan where the seams go?

 

Yeah, the longer lengths will be more expensive and very difficult to handle. Some will twist and warp before you get them up and make it even more difficult. I would stick with readily available 12' lengths. The joint is almost a non issue. Plan your joints 32" apart if 16" oc, or every other joist if 24", or more if you desire. Just don't make a "pattern" of your joints that will be more obvious.

 

I've put up 20' lengths of 1x4 douglas fir by myself so I would think you would be able to do it. Personally, I like the look of 1x4 double beaded over 1x6 or 1x8 car siding (v-groove). With a 1x4, bent boards aren't much of a problem. You can pretty easily force t&g tight then nail it. It's not too tough to rig up some "helper" boards to temporarily help hold and prevent the board from falling out when you go to the other end to start nailing. You can also put a few temporary nails through the tongue and into the drywall (intentionally miss the joist) to help hold the piece up while you go to the other end to start nailing into the joists.

I also glue behind the boards with construction adhesive in addition to nailing. You don't want that ceiling to move or buckle, so its added insurance. Nails can pull out, wood can cup/warp. Glue just helps. (not on the tongue or groove though.)