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What saw to cut 2x4 stud inside of drywall? Anything better than multitool?

What saw to cut 2x4 stud inside of drywall? Anything better than multitool?


  #1  
Old 10-24-15, 05:46 PM
L
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What saw to cut 2x4 stud inside of drywall? Anything better than multitool?

Making a 3x5' pass through from kitchen to living room. I've cut and removed the drywall using a multi-tool and drywall hand saw. Studs remain and need to be cut 1.5" inside the drywall at bottom and 3.5" inside drywall at top for header and sill. I have eight cuts to make. Planning to buy new blades for multi-tool, but still looking for easier option. A demo saw won't work. Is there a better tool for making these cuts from inside the wall. I don't mind renting. Thanks.
 
  #2  
Old 10-24-15, 06:01 PM
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A multitool would do the job but don't forget..... the sheetrock will be fastened to that stud making it difficult to just slide the stud out.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 10-24-15 at 06:25 PM. Reason: typo
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Old 10-24-15, 06:04 PM
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I would use a reciprocating saw (probably your reference to a demo saw) and make my cut right through the drywall. You end up with a 3" cut on both sides which are easily covered with mud and tape.

I assume you have tried reaching into the cavity to cut horizontally with the multi-tool.

Bud
 
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Old 10-24-15, 06:13 PM
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Asking to cut inside the drywall is asking a lot. Oscillating tool is the only option. I do the same as Bud, cut thru the drywall and stud.

A reciprocating saw (demo saw) will work here. I prefer a quality jig saw with extra long blade, or plunge cut blade if you can cut from both sides.
 
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Old 10-25-15, 06:29 AM
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All the drywall should have came off, not just enough for the opening. (In your case at least the back side and all the top rock should have came off.
Would have been a whole lot faster and easier to have snapped a line and used a cirular set to max depth on the back side before the rock came off. That way over 1/2 the cut would have been made, would have been straight, Far less nail or screw pops from all the shaking, drywall would have held the studs in place.
2 X 4's for a 5+"'s header!
How would you attach the cripples to the header with drywall covering them up?
 
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Old 10-25-15, 07:32 AM
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Agree that it will be near impossible to cut and construct a header without removing additional drywall. You also have to open up the sides to insert studs to support the header which need to go all the way to the floor. Save yourself some aggravation and open things up. Drywall repair is fairly straight forward.
 
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Old 10-30-15, 12:01 PM
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Thanks for the replies. Didn't mean to mislead y'all by using the term "header" for top of frame. I've confirmed that it's a partition wall, not load bearing. Was 95% certain when I posted, but have since confirmed through observation of space between truss and top of wall plate. Was planning a 2x4 header just for piece of mind originally. There will be ZERO drywall to repair afterwards. I'll frame it in with a "jamb" and moulding, just like the walk-through. My drywall repair skills are pathetic.
Good point about the drywall nails.
I would NEVER use a circular saw on drywall at ANY depth. Electrical lines and dust. I have to live here.
P.S. Fein multi-master blades fit craftsman multi-tool. Wood cutting blades rock.
Will let y'all know how it goes in a week or two. Have to have electrical work done first.
Thanks.
 
 

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