Tightening solid wood newel

I have a newel at the bottom of the staircase, which is standalone (only has a railing coming out one side). It seems to be a bit loose, and I'd like to tighten it, but I'm not sure how. The newel is solid oak, and I don't have access to the fastner used to attach it (cieling below is finished, and stippled, so I can't get to it). I've looked online, and I've seen someone suggest just putting some gorilla glue between the newel and the step, and just letting that dry. I'm wondering if that idea has any merit, or if I should perhaps drill a couple of angled holes for screws, and then plug them (which wouldn't be very pretty...).

John

 

Can you post a picture?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html

 

No way is glue going to work!
Look close at the sides of the post and look for a 1" wooden plug.

 

This is the pic:



I tried removing the railing, and twisting it, but it didn't seem to tighten. I'm installing carpet around it, so I have a half inch of space at the bottom for some sort of bracket. Not sure what else I can do...

 

As Joe said, inspect the bottom section of the newel post for a plug. Usually behind the plug is a nut that you can tighten. I doubt a bracket that only comes up a 1/2" would provide any support.

 

A newel post that just mounts to top of stair like that (rather than to side or front) should have had a post that continued on through the finished tread and attached to framing below.

If you don't find a plug covering access to a nut to tighten, and since you are planning to carpet, I suggest one of these brackets, but you will have to remove the newel to use it:

https://www.westfirestairparts.com/e...ewel-fastener/

You screw up through the bracket into the newel (with long, strong screws), and then screw down through the bracket into the finished tread.

 

I have the same problem but haven't addressed it because I want to replace my dated and ugly banister.

Anyway to remove the riser to access at least part of that long tenon extending through the tread & floor? Might be able to shore it up by working inside that space.
That's assuming it was done correctly to begin with--mine is just toe-nailed to the tread

Doing it right means cutting out a section of the basement ceiling. Patching drywall isn't really so bad...